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PRLSCILLA 

Battenberg 
and 

Point Lace 
Book 







Published by 

ThePrisciUaPublishmg Co. 

Boston, Mass. 











Some Useful Combination Stitches 




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^attentierg antr ^oint lUtt ^ook 

A COLLECTION OF LACE STITCHES 



WITH 



l^orking JBmttiom for praib ILattsi 

BY 

NELLIE CLARKE BROWN 

'/ 



PRICE, 25 CENTS 



PUBLISHED BY 

(Ei)E ^rigciUa ^ublisfjing Company 

85 BROAD STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



Copyright, I9I2, by The Priscilla Pubhshing Company. Boston, Mass. 






^ i? 




No. 1420. Point Lace Il.\MiKi:ic(.iiu:r. 



iCI.A:U03i:.i 



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N 



s. 



How to Make Battenberg and Point Lace* 



Selection of Materials. 




|HE same rules and instruction apply 
to Battenberg and modem point lace. 
The latter, being much the tiuer and 
more delicate, requires more time and 
patience. Both deserve equal care, 

Braid and Thread. 

The pattern being chosen, select a smooth linen 
braid. Great care should be taken to avoid getting 
a cotton braid. The beauty and value of many a 
piece of Battenberg lace has been lessened because 
it was made with a cotton braid. 

The working thread, as well as all other parts 
of the work, should always be linen. There are 
various lace threads that are good, and each has 
its friends. Some of the threads that are so 
slightly twisted as to resemble floss are good for 
the filling of rings, and, when a soft, indefiaite 
effect is desired, is the right thing for their cover- 
ing of buttonhole stitch or crochet. When it is 
desired to have each thread in the covering of the 
ring stand out distinctly, thread more tightly 
twisted should be used. For overcasting the braid, 
Nos. 70 or 80 may be used, while for the filling-in 
stitches, Nos. 40 to 60 should be selected, according 
to the degree of fineness desired in the work. The 
narrow braid calls for a finer thread than the 
wider braid requires. None of the cotton threads 
should be used for any part of the permanent 
work. To avoid knots and tangles in the working 
thread, the needle should always be threaded from 
the right end of the tliread, and before working 
the thread should be drawn through the tliumb 
and finger of tlie left hand to lessen its liability to 
twist and tangle. 

For needle point lace the best thread is the 
"Petit Moulin" linen lace thread, manufactured 
for the purpose in France. This thread may be 
Lad in numbers from 30 to 1500. For the very 
finest lace, Nos. 1000 to 1500 should be nsed, 
while for doilies and handkerchiefs it is advisable 
to use a slightly heavier thread. Nos. 600 to 1000 
are good. In making Honiton and princess lace, 
Nos. 400 to 600 are most effective. The coarser 
tlireads are excellent for Battenberg lace. 



This tliread comes in balls, varying in size from 
the tiny ball of No. 1500 to the large ball of No. 
30. Around the outside is pasted a ring of stiff 
paper, which serves as a protector for the thread, 
and keeps it free from soil. This paper should 
not be removed, but the thread should be used 
from the centre of the ball. On one side of the 
ball is a thread passing across from the centre to 
the circumference. By pulling this thread an end 
is discovered, and the ball unwinds from the in- 
side in the fashion of most balls of thread and 
twine. It is advi.sable to put the ball into a little 
box, through a puncture in the lid of which the 
thread may be drawn witliout risk of soil or injury. 
Thread bags of various kinds may be used instead 
of the box. 

Rings. 

Very excellent rings may be bought ready for 
use, but many ladies prefer to make them. For 
their use a very handy little ring gauge has been 
invented, and is shown in miniature in Fig. 1. 
This provides for the making of rings 
in six different sizes, and permits of 
their being made of any thickness de- 
sired. The thread or floss is wound 
around the chosen section of the ring 
gauge a sufficient number of times, 
perhaps twenty, to make the ring of 
the necessary thick- 
ness. The thread or 
floss .should be loose 
enough to allow of its 
being overcast. To do 
this, thread a needle 
and pass it repeatedly 
around the roll of 
threads by pushing 
the needle between the threads and the ring gauge. 
When it is closely overcast, push the thread ring 
carefully off the ring gauge without marring its 
circular shape. To do this succes.sfully, give it a 
series of little pushes with the thumb around and 
around its circumference until it slips off. It is 
now a ring of threads held in place by the over- 
casting thread which is coiled around it. It may 





Fig. 1. Ring Gauge and Buttcn- 
HOLED Ring for Battenberg 
AND Point Lace. 



now be tiuislied in cither one ur two ways. It 
may be covered with a close row of buttonhole 
stitches, and so resemble the ready-made ring, or 
it may be covered with a close row of single 
(U'ochet. The end may be fastened by passing it 
through the threads of the ring. If the needle is 
thr\ist tlirough the body of the ring, and carries 
the thread a short distance from the finishing 
place, and then with another stitch returns to its 
starting-point, the end will be safely secured. To 



make the rings exactly alike, care should be taken 
to have the thread circle tlie ring gauge exactly 
the same number of times in each ring. 

Eings for the needle point lace should be veiy 
slender and delicate. The thread should be wound 
around the gauge from four to eight or ten times, 
then overcast and buttonlroled. Crochet is not 
practical for these dainty rings. When a substi- 
tute for the ring gauge is desired, bone knitting- 
needles, pencils, or tiny glass bottles may be used. 



Basting and Overcasting. 




the outer 



i,HE first work is basting the braid to the 
pattern. In most patterns the braid is 
represented by a double line. In bast- 
ing, one edge of the braid should follow 
line of the pattern, and the basting 
threads should be placed through the open edge of 
the braid and upon the outer line of the pattern 
designating the braid. When the progress of the 
pattern changes the outer line or curve, to which 
you have been basting, to the inner curve, the 
basting thread should be carried across the braid 
as is shown in the illu.stration (Fig. 2), and the 
basting continued along what is now the outer 
curve. 




Fig. 'i. Muriioii of BAsTi.xii ]3ii.\iD in Battenberc, axd 

FOINT L.VCE. 

The Ijasting stitches should be rather close and 
short, and shoidd be drawn tightly so as to hold 
the braid firmly to its place. Should the basting 
stitches be loose, the putting in of the lace stitches 
will inevitalily draw the braid from its place on 
the pattern and spoil the perfection of llie lines 
and curves of tlie design. 

Back stitching is neither necessary nor advis- 
able. The forward stitches taken closely and 
firmly will hold the braid securely, and are easy 



to remove. Braid that is back stitched to the i^at- 
tern makes an unnecessarily tedious ta.sk of the 
separating of the work from the pattern just at 
the time \yhen the completion of the stitches makes 
the worker unusually eager to see the work com- 
jileted. 

Never under any circumstances should any but 
a. straight length of braid be basted through the 
middle. Should the braid be basted through the 
middle when following a curve, it is almost im- 
possible not to draw it too tight, and as a result 
the outer edge will curl up and utterly spoil the 
work, as no amount of care in placing the stitches 
can make right a piece of work where the outer 
edge of the braid around a curve rises in its might, 
and reaches longingly towards its opposite and 
inner edge. 

Turning Corners. 

Great care should be observe-;, in turning corners, 
and various methods are employed for corners of 
different angles. In an obtuse corner (Fig. 3, a), 
or one so broad and shallow as to be almost a curve, 
it is only necessary to follow the outer curve of the 
patteru'of the braid, and allow the I'esulting fulness 
to remain loose imtil the overcasting .stitches draw 
it down into shape. 

In sharp or acute angles (Fig. .3. //)the braid may 
be basted to the extreme point of the angle, and 
the fulness folded over, so the fold will lie along 
the edge of the braid, as the basting is continued 
along the second side of the point. 

In a sharp angle the fold of the braid may .also 
be turned under (Fig. 3, c), the fold being so regu- 
lated th.at its ends reach from the exact j)oint of 
tlie outer edge of the braid or pattern to the exact 



point of the inner edge. This forms a mitered 
corner and divides the point exactly in halves. 

Still another way (Fig. 3, d) is applicable to an 
angle of any degree, biit it cuts off the end of the 
point. In this method, when the point is ap- 
proached, the braid is simply turned over upon 
itself at the angle necessary to allow the braid 
u]ion either side of the fold to follow the line of 
the design. 




Fig. 3. Method of Ba.sting B.\TrENDEKG akd Point Lace 
Braid on Couners and Curves. 

In all cases the point of the braid should be 
securely fastened to the pattern in such a way 
that its end will not stand out from the pattern 
and form a hook or projection, around which the 
working thread will be prone to catch at the risk 
of pricked fingers, tangled ■ thread, and stitches 
dragged out of shape. A stitch or two carried 
from the point of the braid to the pattern beyond 
will hold all points securely and will repay the 
care expended many times. Hurried basting, with 
loose points and corners, often results in great loss 
of time and perfection of work. 

Scallops and Loops. 

Where the pattern contains a series of overlap- 
ping scallops or loops, with one width of braid 
between them (Fig. 3, e), the braid should not be 
cut but doubled back upon itself. Baste the 
braid upon the outer edge of the design until it 
reaches the braid that checks its course. Turn it 
back upon itself so that the fold j ust touches the 
other braid and may be overcast to it. Let the 
edge of the returning braid follow the outer line 
of the pattern of the next scallop or loop. 

Where the design of the pattern contains a series 
of scallops or loops on either side of a central fig-, 
ure (Fig. 3, e) the braid may be put on with the 



foldings in the order in which they come, but this 
destroys the similarity of the two sides. A better 
appearance is obtained by having the two sides 
similar. In turning the braid back upon itself 
at the end or top of the loop, it is brought over 
the already basted braid of the preceding loop. 
On the opposite side it is best to turn the braid 
7inder the side of the preceding loop. This must 
be done before the basting of the preceding loop is 
completed. 

Upon reaching the point where the two braids 
diverge, the end of the braid nearest the bastings 
is taken in the fingers of the left hand, and with 
the fingers of the right hand is doubled back or 
under that held in the left hand. Lay the doubled 
braid down upon the pattern, being sure that it is 
just sufiiciently long to reach the end of the loop 
or scallop. One row of basting fastens the two 
layers of braid into place. It is best to cut the 
braid as seldom as possible, and this method of 
turning back the braid saves many cuttings, and 
presents a much neater appearance than when it 
is cut at every opportunity. > 

Overcasting'. 

After the braid has all been carefully basted 
into place, the full inner edges of the curves must 
also be brought into place. To do this they must 
be overcast with a very fine linen thread. This 
overcasting thread should pass over and over the 
edge of the braid and into each of its marginal 
loops. Only occasionally, on very large, slightly 
curved lines, may a loop be here and there omitted. 

On the edges of spaces to be filled with twisted 
bars, spiders, wheels, and other similar stitches 
where the working thread must pass from point 
to point along the edge of the braid, the overcast- 
ing may be omitted, and the passage of the working 
thread utilized to draw the braid into place as it 
proceeds in its course of completing the stitch. 
Familiarity with the work will show when the 
work of overcasting may in this way be lessened. 
The overcasting thread should not be drawn tight 
enough to draw the braid from its place on the 
pattern, but it should be tight enough to hold 
the inner gathered edge smoothly down to the 
pattern, where it must fit as flatly as its opposite 
outer edge. 

Whenever the overcasting thread reaches a place 
where two edges of the braid meet or cross, the 
needle should be passed through both braids, either 



iii a simple oveirastiug stitch or witli a siugle 
buttonhole knot. When the thread passes from 
one side to the other of two braid edges the thread 
should connect them at both sides. 

When in the course of the overcasting the curve 
of the braid changes, and the inner curve becomes 
the outer one, a buttonhole stitch should be taken 
in the edge of the braid at the point -wji-nra the 
curve changes and the thread carefullv v/oveu 
through the braid to its opposite sids, v.here 
another buttonhole stitch should be taken and the 
overcasting continued. 

Cutting the Braid. 

Where tlie ends of a braid meet at a corner, or 
other place having no other braid to hide the j unc- 
ture, fold the end of the under braid up and the 
end of the upper braid Jown, and lay the one upon 
the other. Overcast them together at the end of 
both braids. The beginning of the basting of the 
braid to the design, as well as the joining of two 
ends, should occur at the crossing of two braids; 
Pass the second braid over the end of the first, and 
when you again reach that point in the design put 
tlie second end under the overlying braid with the 
first. This makes the upper side the right side. 

If it is desired to have the under side of the 
work, or the side next the pattern, the right side, 
the manner of procedure should be reversed, and 
the two ends placed oner the other braid. These 
ends should be either turned over and hemmed 
down neatly, or very carefully overcast to the other 
braid, that no ragged edges may be seen on either 
side. The folding over of the ends makes the 
work a little thicker just at that point, and is 
more easily noticed than the other finish, which, if 
carefully done, is hardly visible, and is especially 
fitted for the finer laces. 

Bastingf the Rings to the Pattern. 

When basting on the rings it is well to remem- 
ber that the basting threads have to be removed 
later. Only enough are needed to hold the ring 
in place. If the needle is thrust through the 
ring four times, twice downwards and twice up- 
wards, it is sufficient. As the rings are not exactly 
alike on both sides, it is necessary, when placing 
them, to be very careful to see that the same side 
is always uppermost. Very pretty effects are 
obtained by graduating the size of the rings in a 



row or series. The centre ring may be the largest^ 
and those on either side may decrease in size as 
they approach the end or point of the space allotted 
to them, or a large ring may lead a row of others 
of decreasing size. 

When the pattern requires the rings to be placed 
so close together that they touch, they should be 
I'.nited by threads entering each ring at one point 
only, and these uniting threads should not be 
drawn tight enough to bring the rings firmly 
together, but should serve as a hinge, which, while 
it keeps the rings together, allows them to move 
freely. Eiugs should, under no circumstances, be 
sewed together along their circumferences, as the 
effect is stiff and clumsy, and not at all dainty 
and lace-like. 

It is best to baste the rings to the pattern only 
as the progress of the work requires. The working 
thread is very apt to catch between the basted 
rings and the pattern, and so delay the work. 
After the work of attaching the rings to the braid 
with the lace stitches has been completed, it is 
impossible for the thread to catch in tins manner. 

Fastening the Thread. 

Knots should never appear in any lace, and the 
worker should aim to have both sides of the work 
appear equally neat and perfect. When the com- 
pletion of a stitch or the limit of a thread permits 
the fastening to be made at the intersection of two 
braids, a single buttonhole knot should be made, 
and the thread passed, by means of the needle, 
back and forth two or three times between the 
braids with a tiny backstitch at each change of 
the direction of the thread. When a new thread 
is to be fastened at the intersection of two braids, 
the needle should be passed between these two 
braids with the point toward the place at which 
the thread is to be fastened. The thread should 
then be carefully drawn through until the end 
jvist disappears from sight between the braids. A 
buttonhole knot should then be made, and back of 
it a second one to guard its predecessor. 

Wlien, in the course of the work, the end of a 
used thread must be fastened to a single braid, it 
may be overcast along the edge of the braid with 
an occasional buttonhole knot, or a single button- 
hole knot may tie the thread to the edge of the 
braid, and the needle may then pass in a series 
of tiny running stitches, with an occasional back- 
stitch, along the body of the braid for a short 



distance. The new thread should tlien be carried 
by the needle in a similar manner along the braid 
from the direction opposite that taken by the 
retiring thread. At the point where tlie thread is 
to be fastened, and the work continued, two button- 
hole knots are all that is necessary. 

It is often well, when tilling in with stitches that 
permit, to begin the new thread on the side of the 
space opj)Osite the ending of the former thread. 
This serves to make the place of juncture still less 
conspicuous. 

All patterns should be able to be considered as 
composed of two parts — design and background. 
The design should be prominently brought out, 
and, to accomplish this, the network and other 
showy stitches should be used, keeping the spider- 
webs, bars, and other open stitches for the back- 
ground. It is well to put in the background, 
stitches first, as they will hold the curves of the 
braid in place, and preserve the shape of the de- 
sign until the work is tiuished. 



When working, either side of the lace may be 
considered tlie right side. Each has its advantages 
and disadvantages. The aim of the worker should 
always be to make both sides so neatly and care- 
fully that they are equally beautiful, and there is 
no wrong side. Eibbed wheels and some other 
stitches cannot so easily be worked on the wrong 
side, and some other stitches appear better on the 
side upon which they have been worked. Other 
stitches appear alike on both sides. The overcast- 
ing of two braids together, and the beginning and 
ending of each thread, often appear more plainly 
upon the upper side and mar the effect of the 
work, but with care that can be avoided. When 
the wrong side is up, care must be exercised in 
placing the rings, which must also be wrong side 
up. If there is any fear of soiling the work, it is 
always advisable to make it wrong side up. The 
under side is usually smoother, but the pressing 
of the piece when finished makes both sides equally 
smooth and handsome. 



Preparing a Sampler. 




(VERY lace-maker should prepare a sam- 
pler upon which to reproduce the 
various lace stitches, which may be 
worked, cut out, and repeated until pro- 
ficiency is acquired, and this without danger of 
soiling or in any way spoiling the piece of work 
in which the stitch is to be introduced. If 
every stitch is practised in this way the worker 
will in the end, besides having become very fa- 
miliar with the variotis stitches, have them illus- 
trated in a compact, practical form. Only those 
workers who have prepared them for use know the 
comfort and satisfaction to be had in the posse.s- 
sion of a sampler. 

To prepare this sampler an oblong piece of cam- 
bric or holland is required. The size of this 
depends upon the size of the collection of stitches 
the worker hopes to obtain, and a sampler is a 
great incentive to new stitches. What the kodak 
book and the stamp album are to their devotees, 
so is the sampler to the lace-worker. A new stitch 
becomes a great prize and is eagerly added to the 
collection. In view of this, and that there are 
over a hundred stitches in common use, it is well 
to make the .sampler sufficiently large. 



When holland — the .smooth, shiny holland — is 
used, no additional background is needed. When 
cambric is used, it is necessary to line it with a sheet 
of strong but not too stiff paper, or a light weight 
canvas. With narrow tape or Battenberg braid a 
part of this sampler is checked off in one-inch 
squares and the remainder in oblongs one inch by 
one-half inch in size, as .shown in Fig. 4. The 
squares are for the networks and wheels, while 
the oblongs are for insertions and bars. The 
braid presents a very neat 
appearance, and is delight- 
fully firm if it is first basted 
in place and then stitched 
through the centre on the 
machine. The last piece of 
braid to be attached should 
be the one that passes around 
the others like a frame and 
covers up the cut ends of 
the braid. Or a sampler 
may be made on an all-over 
lace pattern; this would 
show the best application of the different stitches, 
to the various shaped spaces. 



Fig. 4. Diagram OF Sam 
PLER FOR Lace .Stitches 



Lace Stitches. Bars. 





Plain Twisted 
Bak. 



AC-E stitches may be classified n.s bars, 
wheels, insertions, and networks. The 
first two are used in filling in tlie back- 
ground of designs, while tlie insertions 

and networks are reserved for the filling in of 

the design itself. 

Sorrento Bars. 

Tlie plain twisted bar, Fig. 5, also called the Sor- 
rento bar, is the simplest of all stitches. The 
thread is fastened securely in tlie proper jjlace and 
carried across the space to be 
filled, where it is held smoothly 
over the ])attern and again 
secured either by passing it 
through the edge of the braid 
or fastening it with a button- 
hole knot. The work is then 
held so that the first fastening 
of the tlirpad is away from the 
worker and the second attach- 
ing is nearer. The needle is 
then repeatedly passed under 
tlie bar, and the working thread drawn tightly 
each time, until the opposite end of the bar is 
reached. 

The overcasting away from instead of toward 
the worker sechres a better twist or rope effect, 
and eacli twisting or overcasting of the thread 
helps to keep the preceding overcastings in place, 
and avoids the loop in the nearer end of the bar, 
where the thread turns back iipou itself. 

The working tliread is carried from one com- 
pleted bar to the point from which anothei- is De- 
gun by a. series of overcasting .stitches along the 
selvage of the braid. 

The double twisted bar. Fig. 6, is formed by 
casting three threads across the space to be filled. 
These threads are stretched 
just sufficiently to cause them 
to lie in a straight line between 
the braids without pulling them 
from their places. They are 
then overcast together in a.i 
open effect that allows the 
foundation threads to show 
between the coiling of the over- 
casting thread,' which winds 
t\visti:i> Ha" around them like a tendril. 




These bars may be arranged according to fancy, 
and are grouped in clusters of three, arranged in 
jjoints and in rays from a common centre, or are 
placed in parallel lines, when they are sometimes 
tied through the centre with a series of buttonhole 
knots, and this tying thread overcast as are the 
bars. 

Plain Buttonhole Bar. 

Wlicu a bar licavier than the twisted bars is 
desirtd, the plain buttonhole bar may be used, as 
in Fig. 7. The thread is fastened securely and 
carried across the space to lie filled two, three, or 
four times, according to the weight or size of the 
liar desired. The working 
thread is then carried one 
loop of the braid-edge 
lower than the one into 
whi(4i the foundation 
threads are placed, and the 
entire bar filled closely and 
smoothly with a row of 
buttonhole stitches, which 
may be worked either from 
left to right, or from right 
to left; but the former is 
the easier, as the thread 
does not have to be thrown 
around into position, but falls in place with the 
working of each stitch. The carrying of the 
working thread one loop of the braid-edge be- 
low the foundation threads of the bar keeps the 
finished bar in place, and avoids all tendency to 
curl or twist out of shape. For the same rea- 
son, when the end of the bar is reached, the 
thread is fastened just below the last stitch. 
AMiere a series of bars is to be worked, the work- 
ing thread is overcast along the braid-edge to the 
desired position of the second bar, and the process 
repeated. These buttonhole bars may be grouped 
in various ways, and are often called Point de 
Veiiise bars. 

Buttonholed Bars with Pinned Picots. 

When open jucots (also called dots or purls) are 
desired on the buttonholed bar, they are formed 
as the work proceeds, at intervals of halves, thirds, 
quarters, or according to whatever arrangement is 
chosen. See Fig. 8. A small pin is thru.st into 



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Fig. 7. Plain- Blittox- 
noLE Bak. 



the 2)attern'at a distance from the bar eorrespoiul- 
ing with the desired length of the pieot. The 
working thread is passed under the pin, and is 
carried over and behind the foundation threads, 
and outside of the loop held down by the pin. 
The needle is then thrust with a buttonhole stiti-h, 
at right angles to the bar, under the pinned loop 
and the other thread, which has just reappeared 






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Fig. 8. Butt^miolk Hai; 
WITH Pinned Picot. 



l'"n;. 9. I5L'TT(»Mn>LE Bah 

WITH PiCOT. 



from behind the foundation tlireads. Thi.s button- 
hole stitch is then drawn tightly to the bar, and 
close to the last buttonhole stitch on the bar. The 
buttonholing is then continued until anothei- picot 
is desired, when the process is repeated. When it 
is desired that more than one buttonhole stitch is 
to bind the picot in place, the first one is fastened 
sufficiently far from the bar to allow the others 
to be fitted closely between it and the bar, as is' 
shown in Fig. 9. 

Bar with Buttonhole Picot. 

In making the buttonhole picot, the button- 
holing of the prepared foundation threads is 
continued for six or more stitches beyond the 
point where the picot is to begin; or, in other 
words, the buttonholing is continued to the farther 
end of the proposed picot. The thread is then 
carried back to the sixth 
stitch, and pas.sed between 
it and the seventh. It is 
then carried forward again 
and over the foundation 
threads close to the end of 
the buttonholing. Again it 
is carried back to the sixth 
buttonhole and secured. 
The needle is then thrust 
between the seventh and 
eighth buttonhole .stitches. 
This is done to prevent the 
end of the picot from curling 



ffi X 1 1ll " 



Fig. 10. BAUwnir Brrri 
HOLED Piror 



up out of place. 



The three foundati(m threads ju.st made are then 
buttonholed until the picot is completed. The 
remainder of the bar is then buttonholed. 

Bar with Two Rows of Dots. 

One of the prettiest and most effective bar 
stitches consists of a foundation of two thread.s, 
uiion which are worked two rows of buttonhole 
knots. One of these rows being on each side of 
the foundation tlireads, cau.ses both sides of the 
finished bar to be exactly alike. The working 
thi'ead is fastened to the braid at the right-hand 
end of the proposed bar, and is carried across to 
the opposite side, and there secured to the braid 
by passing the needle under one thread of the 
braid edge. It is then retui-ned to the right side, 
and the buttonhole knots jtlaced along the lower 
side cu- edge of tlie foundation thread.s. 

The first stitch is a regular buttonhole stitch; 
the second is a, reversed buttonhole stitcli. This is 
worked in tin* following manner: 'I'he thread is 
held .securely close to the just completed button- 
hole stitch, by placing the left thumb upoa it 
The loose end of the thread (the end on which 
the needle is threaded) is then drawn upwards 
toward the end of the thumb, and secured beneath 
it, thus forming a loop 
whose loose end is the 
one nearer the foundation 
threads. The needle is then 
passed back of the two 
foundation threads, over the 
upper or nearer thread of 
the thumb-held loop. 

This reversed buttonhole 
stitch is drawn closely to 
the foundation threads. The 
result is two close button- 
liole stitches secured by a 
tiny bar of the thread be- 
neath them, and parallel to 
the foundation threads. Tlie next regular button- 
hole stitch is placed upon the foundation threads 
just far enough from the former pair to permit tlie 
filling in of the space between by the pair of stitches 
to be worked from the other side. The reversed 
buttonliole stitch is then placed close to its com- 
panion, and the work so continued to the end of 
the foundation threads, which will show grotips 
of two buttonhole stitches at regular intervals 
along its length. 



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\\. B.\it WITH Two 
Uows OF Dots. 



The entire pattern is theu reversed, bringing 
the imfinished side of the bar into position for 
completion. A group of the two buttonliole knots, 
the tirst regular and the second reversed, is then 
inserted in each of the spaces left for this pur- 
pose. The result is a closely covered bar of intri- 
cate appearance, and of a very braid-like i effect. 
In fact, the ambitious worker may accomplish a 
piece of lace which, thougli containing a braid, is 
entirely hand made. To do this, a long, narrow 
strip of holland, or paper-lined cambric, is secured. 
The ends are then basted together, and a large 
hoop or ring thus formed. To this the two foun- 
dation threads are couched at regular intervals in 
a straight line, circling the hooj) a ntunber of 
times sufficient to furnish the required length of 
braid. 

The pairs of buttonhole knots are theu woi'ked 
down the length of the threads on one side of the 
foundation threads. The holland hoop is then 
rever.sed, and the either side of the braid com- 
pleted. The couching threads are then cut, and 
the dainty strip of " braid " released. The loop- 
like appearance of the edges furnish very excel- 
lent openiugs for the needle, when the filling-in 
stitches are placed. 

A wider braid may be secured by increasing the 
ninnber of foundation threads, whicli may also be 
of a larger size than the filling-in stitches, if so 
desired. A very. pretty network residts from the 
use of this pair of regular and reversed buttonhole 
stitches. The work is done in rows, and is exactly 
like the Brussels net two-stitch, except that the 
second buttonhole stitch of eai:4i pair is reversed. 

Raleigh Bars. 

Another form of the buttonliole stitch bars is 
called the Raleigh bar. In this stitch the foun- 
dation bars are first laid throughout the space 
to be filled, using a coarse thread. These bars are 
often put in sufficiently loose that they may be 
twisted by the working thread several times before 
the next loop is made. This twisted length serves 
as another division, and increases tlie desired irreg- 
ular appearance of the bars. After the foundation 
threads are all in place the buttonholing is accom- 
plished with occasional picots, either pinned, lace, 
or bidlion. worked at irregular intervals. 

This stitch may be worked in a regular ^lesign 
of squares or triangles, but its chief beauty lies in 
its irregularity of form. 




Fig. 12. Raleioh Bars. 

Bar with Picot Made in Bullion Stitch. 

The foundation threads are prepared as for the 
plain buttonhole bar. The.se threads are covered 
with buttonhole stitches set close together tmtil 
the place where the picot is to be placed is reached. 
The needle is theu thrust part way through the 
last buttonhole stitch, and 
the thread wound from left 
to right ten to twentj- times 
around its point. These coils 
of thread must be drawn up 
closely and evenly along the 
length of the needle, but not 
so tightly that it is difficult 
or impossible to draw the 
needle through them. The 
left thumb is placed upon 
the coil, and the needle 
drawn through with the fin- 
gers of the right hand. The 
tliread is pulled up so tightly that the coil is drawn 
almost into a semicircle. The buttonholing of the 
bar, against which the picot will rest securely, is 
continued until the point for the next picot is 
reached. 

This coiling of the thread about the needle may 
be used in various ways. At the intersection of 
two twisted bars fdiii- bullion picots, meeting at 
the point of intersection, may be placed one be- 
tween each right angle formed by the meeting 
of the twisted threads. See Fig. 14. A space 
filled with a netwoik of lines at right angles, 
forming a checkerboard appearance when com- 
pleted, with a (juartet of tliese bullion picots at 



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Fn:. \3. IUttonholeii 
Bar with Picot ix 
Billion SxiTrH. 




Tig. 14. 



W.A.Y OF Working Qcatrefoil 
IN Bullion Stitch. 



each intersection, is very eifective. Closely worked 

networks may 
be embellished 
with good ef- 
fect, a.s shown 
in Fig. 15. The 
needle in this 
case is passed 
down through 
the completed 
network at the 
point which is 
to be the centre 
of the figure, 
and it reap- 
pears through 
the network at the point which is to be the outer 
end of the figure. The thread is then coiled 
around the point of the needle a sufficient num- 
ber of times to fill the space between the disap- 
pearance and reappearance of the needle. The 
thumb is placed upon the coil, and the needle and 
thread drawn through until the coils are closely 
held together, but in a straight line. The needle 
is then thrust through the point where it made its 
former disappearance, and the coil lies on the net- 
work like a tiny leaf. Clusters of three or four of 
these coils meeting at a common centime are very 
effective. 

The rounded bullion picot may also be worked 
ujion a completed network, and when it is desired 

to have it lie flat, a 
stitch may be taken 
through the network 
and the under-side of 
the picot, thus fasten- 
ing the coiled loop se- 
curely to the network. 
Three bullion picot 
coils meeting at a cen- 
tre, and with a worked 
stem attached, make a very pretty clover leaf. 
See Fig. 15. 

Branched Bars, or Buttonholed Bars. 

AVhen it is desired to fill with bars spaces too 
wide to admit of the use of any of the bar stitches 
already given, branched bars will be very appropri- 
ate. They may be used with good effect, also, 
in filling in backgrounds. A. piece of lace 





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Fiii. 15. Trefoils in Bi-llion 
Stitch Worked on Button- 
holed F0trNI>.\TION. 




Fig. IB. Bbanched But- 
tonhole Bars. 



whose background is filled 
with branched buttonlioled 
bars presents an especially 
rich appearance, and the 
extra time and labor neces- 
sary to accomplish this back- 
ground is fully repaid by 
the beauty of the result. 

The usual foundation of 
three threads is laid loosely 
across one corner of the 
space to be filled. These 
foundation threads are then 
closely buttonholed for about 
half their length, when the working thread is car- 
ried to the point selected for the end of the next 
loop. A second and third passing of the thread 
supplies the new foundation for this next loop, 
which is then buttonholed for half its length, 
when a third foundation ds prepared. 

This is continued' until the spacing of the bars 
is accomplished. When in the placing of these 
bars it is necessary to comiJete the buttonlioling 
of an unfinished bar before another is begun, it 
should be done, but the work should be so planned 
that the thread need never be broken, but will 
pass in a continuous circuit from bar to bar. 

All the bars being placed, the work of complet- 
ing the buttonlioling of them is begun. The com- 
pletion of one loop brings the working thread to 
the next unfinished bar awaiting completion, and 
so, one by one, the buttonlioling of the bars is 
completed. 

Bar with Lace Picot. 

The lace picots are formed somewhat differently. 
See Fig. 17. The pin is placed as for the open 
pinned picot.s, and the thread passed around it 
and over and behind the foundation threads as 
before, but reappears iw- 
side or between the sides of 
the loop. The pin should 
be far enough from the bar 
to allow four buttonhole 
stitches to be set snugly 
upon tlie loop. The first 
(lue should be placed as 
near the pin as possible, 
in order to cover entirely 
.. „ „ the foundation loop. The 

IiG. 17. Buttonhole Bar '■ 

with Lace Picot. other three stitches should 



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follow the first oues closely and evenly, the last 
one lying against the last l)uttonhole stitch of 
the bar. 

Point d' An vers Bars. 

For the tilling in of leaf-shaped spaces, and nsed 
as an insertion for long narrow spaces, Point d'An- 
vers bars are equally good. The thread is fastened 
at the middle of one end of the space to be filled, 
and carried along the 
edge of the braid, one 
stitch to the right. It 
is then Ijrought across 
tlie length of the space 
and attached to the 
braid, the same distance 
from the centre of tlic 
.space as it is removed 
by the overcasting stitch 
at the opposite end. 
The thread is then car- 
r i e d by overcasting 
stitches a distance to 
the left, equally distant 
from the centre. It is 
then carried back in a 

parallel line to the opposite, or fir.st end of the 
space, and fastened. The two lines of thread should 




i»'Anveks Bak. 



be perfectly parallel, and dra^v ii tightly across the 
space, but not so tightly that they will draw the 
braid out of place. Keeping these foundation 
threads absolutely parallel, the working thread is 
passed in a darning or weaving stitch over anil 
under them for the desired distance. Then the 
first pair of side loops or leaflets is made. The 
process of the weaving brings the working t'lread 
over the right bar. It is then passed behind it 
and over the left bar as during the preceding weav- 
ing, and is passed through the edge of the braid at 
the left side of the space, with the point of the 
needle toward the already woven end of the work. 
The thread is then passed under the left bar and 
over the right as before, and, with the point of the 
needle tlirust from the woven end of the work, is 
carried through the edge of the braid, at the right 
side of the space. It is then brought under the 
right bar and under the last passing of the thread 
across the bars. It is then passed behind the left 
bar and over the right, and the two side loops 
being in place, the weaving of the bar is continued 
until the place for the next pair of side loops is 
reached, when the process is repeated. This is con- 
tinued until the filling of the space is completed. 
For short connecting bars the Point d'Anvers bar is 
.sometimes u.sed without the side loops. 



Wheels or Spiders. 




^HEELS or spiders are made on a foun- 
dation of plain twisted bars. The 
number of bars depends on the size of 
the space. They are ca.st across the 
space to be filled at distances from each other, and 





Fii;. 11). .Spinmnc Wheki.. 



•"111. UO. SPissiNG Wheel. 



in such a manner that they all cross in the centre 
the space. They form diameters, whose halves of 
are radii of a circle. The first bar divides the 
space into halves and is overcast back to the start- 



ing-point. The thread is then overcast along the 
edge of the braid for the required distance and 
again carried across the space, crossing the first 
thread and entering the braid at the right place 
and overca.st back to its beginning. This is re- 
peated until the last bar has been overcast to the 
centre, when all the threads may be fastened to 
gether with a buttonhole knot or not, as preferred 
The spider is then woven. 

This is accomplished by passing the needle over 
and under tlie different radii formed by the bars 
and keeping the woven thread drawn tightly or 
snugly to the centre. This is continued until the 
spider is of sufficient size, when the remaining ra- 
dius or half bar is overcast and the thread cut. 

There are various kinds of spiders. The sim- 
plest is shown in Fig. 19, and is fonned by the 
regular over and under weaving of the radii, and 
results in keeping every alternate radius on the 



10 




Fig. 21. Spixxi-vfi Wheel 
WITH Knotted Circles. 



ui.per side of the spider when finished. The 
thread occasionally passed 
between the two twisted 
threads of a radius will 
keep the circling thread of 
the spider from rolling upon 
itself. Another effect is pro- 
duced by skipping one ra- 
dius in every circuit of the 
thread forming the spider. 
This alternates the thread 
over and under the same radius and hides them 
all from view, as shown in Fig. 20. 

In many uneven places the putting in of the 
bars may be so regvdated that their completion 
permits a final half bar, or a radius, instead of a 
diameter. This is carried to the centre and the 
spider woven as before. Here the odd number of 
radii admits, in fact necessitates, the continual al- 
ternating of the bars or radii. 

A pretty result is obtained by circling the spider 
with one. two, or more rows of the thread, tied at 
each radius with a buttonhole knot as shown in 
Fig. 21. These circles are to be perfectly true and 
equally distant from the spider. To form these 
circles the last radius is overcast two or three 
times, and the series of knots tied around the spider 
at each radius. Upon completing the circle a few 
more overcasting stitches carries the thread a 
sufficient distance, and a second circle is knotted 
in. When enough circles have been made, the rest 
of the radius is overcast and the thread fastened 
off. Smaller spiders, Point de Venise '• shells," 
and other similar stitches may be placed at the 
tying of each knot, and become very effective. 



Spinning Wheel Rosettes. 

The spinning wheel rosettes, Figs. 22 and 23, 
also called ribbed wheels, are made on a founda- 




tion of twisted threads crossing in the centre simi- 
lar to the foundation threads for the spider or 
wheel before given. The working thread is carried 
under two radii, drawn up closely and firmly in 
place. The needle is then passed under the second 
of these radii, and also under the next one (see 
Fig. 23), and the thread 
is again drawn into posi- 
tion. In this manner the 
working thread is always 
carried back over the last 
radius under which it 
passed, and forward under 
Fi.;. -•-. siivMN<. Wheel the next One. This results 

Rosette. . • j j. • i. ■^ 

m a raised twist or coil 
over each radius as shown in the finished wheel, 
Fig. 22. When the lace is being made with the 
right side next the pattern, these ribbed wheels 
must be made wrong 
side up. To do this 
the needle is thrust 
under one radius at a 
time, with the point 
of the needle toward 
both the worker and 
the last radius around 
which the thread has 
passed. The thread 
is then carried over 
the radius and on to 
the next one, where 
the process is re- 
peated. The two ways 
may be combined, and 
the residt is a very 
effective rosette that 
is often seen in drawn work. The centre is worked 
with the coil on the upper or working side for a 
sufficient space, when for a similar space the work 
is reversed, and the coil worked on tlie under side. 




Fid. 23. Det.ml of Spinning 
Wheel Rosette. 



11 



Insertions. 





Plain Russian Stitch. 

aHE plain Russian 

stitch, Fig. -24, is 

the simplest of the 

insertions, and, like 
all insertions, is suitable for 
long, narrow spaces in the 
design of the pattern. This 
is accomplished by a series 
of buttonhole stitches, alternat- 
ing from one side of the space 

. ., ,, Fk;. j4. Plain Ki s- 

to the other. ,,^.^. g,^,,„,„ 

The thread is securelj- fastened in the upper, or 
farther, left-liand corner. It is then brought for- 
ward over the space and held against the pattern 
by the left thumb. The needle is then thrust 
through the braid on the right side of the space, 
with the needle pointing directly across toward 
the braid at the left side. The thread is carried 
through the braid and again secured by the left 
thumb. The work is then repeated from the left 
side of the space, with the needle pointing toward 
the right side. Holding the thread down with the 
thumb makes it impossible to make a wrong twist, 
as the needle never passes under the thread held 
in this way. 

This stitch may be varied by tying each cross- 
ing thread in the middle with a buttonhole knot. 

Twisted Russian Stitch. 

The twisted Russian stitch, Fig. 25, is a trifle 
more complicated. As in the former, the stitches 
alternate from right to left, but the method of hold- 
ing the thread down with tlie left thumb differs. 

The thread is fastened at 
the upper left-hand corner and 
carried forward over the space 
to be filled. The thumb is 
then placed upon it as near 
tlie point of fastening as is 
practical, and the thread is 
brought to the right and again 
slipped under the thumb, form- 
ing an open loop, upon both 
sides of whicli the thumb rests. 
The needle is then thrust 
through the edge of the braid 
at the right, with the point directed to the op- 




Fio.26. Twisted Rus 
.siAN Stitch. 



posite left. It is then passed over the righr-hand 
thread of the loop, under the left-hand thread, and 
drawn up. It is"^'ell to leave the thumb on the loop 
till the stitch is nearly completed, as it avoids 
tangling the thread and causes a more even 
twist. 

Again the thumb holds down the thread, which 
is then brought up on the left side and .slipped 
under the thumb as before. The needle is thrust 
through the braid at the left over the loose side of 
the loop and under the other or I'iglit side. This 
is repeated until tlie space is tilled. 

The same effect may be pjroduced by using the 
plain Russian stitch, and with an overcasting stitch 
producing the extra twist; but this takes more 
time and is not as even in residt.s. 

Column Stitch, 

Column stitch, shown in Fig. 26, is a combina- 
tion of plain and twisted Russian stitch. Each 
stitch on one side of the space to be filled is a 
plain Russian stitch, while all tho.se on the otlier 
side are twisted Russian stitches, with the work- 
ing thread passed three or more times around tlie 
already twisted thread. This stitch makes a very 
pretty insertion for either 
.straight or curved spaces. 
In the latter, the twisted 
side of the stitch may be 
at the outer curve of the 
place to be filled, and the 
twisted threads will radiate 
evenly outwards. The oj>- 
]iosite effect niay be obtained 
by reversing the order of 
the stitclies, when the coils 
of the twisted side will con- 
verge, and, if the curve is 
pronounced, will almost meet, and have the ap- 
pearance of the spokes of a wheel. 

Insertion of Single Buttonhole Stitch. 

Along both sides of the hmg, narrow space to be 
filled, a row of Brussels net (single buttonhole) 
stitches is worked very evenly and quite loosely. 
If the space is a curve the stitches along the inner 
or smaller side of the space must be made closer 
together, in nrder that the stitches of the two rows 




Fifi. 26. Co!.r.M,v Stitch. 



will be iu pairs, with each loop of the inner side 
between two loops of the opi)osite side. This 



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l'"l(i. 27. INSUUTION OF SISOLE BliTTONlKILE STITIH. 

arrangement jjlaces a loop opposite every button- 
hole stitch on either side of the space, and naakes 
an even, regular spacing for the Eussian stitch, 
which connects the two rows of net stitches. To 
do this the thread is fastened at one end of one of 
the rows of net stitches, and is carried from side 
to side, looping into each net stitch in turn. This 
connecting stitch may be either plain or twisted 
Eussian stitch, or, as shown in the cut, may be 
plain Eussian on one side, and twisted Eussian on 
the other. Column stitch may also be used. 

Insertion of Buttonhole Stitch. 

A very pleasing variation of the foregoing stitch 
is made by arranging the single rows of Brussels 
net stitches with the loops directly opposite each 
other. The space between the two rows is then 
tilled with a row of double Eussian stitch. This 
is made by placing two stitches of either plain or 






Fig. '2S. Insektio-v of Buttoxhole Stitoh. 

twisted Eussian .stitch in each loop. Where a 
close or compact insertion is desired, triple or 
quadruple Eussian stitch may be used. This is 
accomplished by placing three or four Eussian 
stitches in each loop. For all ordinary purposes 
double, or at most triple, Eussian stitch is all tliat 
is necessary. A more or less compact ■ effect will 
be gained by using a tiner or coarser thread. 



Insertion with Cones. 

When a heavy, showy effect is desired, cone 
insertion may be used. The working thread is 
fastened to the midile of one end of the space to 
be filled. A single row of plain Eussian stitch is 
worked throughout the length of the space. The 
stitches of this Eussian insertion must be placed at 
regular intervals, but somewhat far apart. Upon 
this as a foundation, the cones are placed. These 
cones are worked over each pair of threads diverg- 
ing from the braid. The working thread is at- 
tached to the point of divergence of the first two 
threads, which is, in other words, the point -where 
the thread forming the Eussian stitch is -first 
attached to the braid. The thread is then carried 
by means of the needle over and under these two 
diverging threads until a closely woven, cone-shaped 
figure, reaching from its point at the edge of the 





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Fiu. '29. Insertion with Cones. 

braid to the middle of the width of the space, is 
finished. 

The working thread is then carried by means of 
a series of overcasting or twisting threads along 
the other half 'of the thread which is to form one 
foundation or side of the first cone on the other side 
of the space. The braid being reached, the thread 
is carried through the open margin of the braid at 
the point where the thread of the Eussian stitch 
enters. A cone is woven over these threads, and 
the working thread carried as before to the adjoin- 
ing threads on the opposite side of the space. 

Insertion with Reversed Cones. 

A still more massive effect is produced by revers- 
ing the cones, and in this way having their bases 
rest upon the braid along the sides of the space to 
be filled, and the points of each pair of opposite 
cones meeting at the centre of the width of the 
space. 

The first row or plain Eussian stitch is worked 
throughout the length of the space as before. A 



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second vnw of the same stitch i.s then wcuked over three times ueeessarv to make tlie -bead " of four 
the first iu such a iiuinner that the working thread threads. At the completion of one "bead,"' the 
is attached to the braid just half way between the working thread is carried once around the filled 
attachments of the first row. This results in the net loop, and once arouml tlie next one, which is 
threads of the two rows crossing each other exactly then joined, as was the first pair, to the next op- 
posite net ^ooji. This brings all the overcasting 
of the uvo loops, when carrying the thread from 
one pair of stitches t(i tlie next, on the same side 
of the work. 



Insertion with Small Wheels. 

To make tliis pretty stitch, the space to be 
filled is first covered with an insertion of plain 
Russian stitch, having the distance between the 
stitches on either side of the bi'aid just twice as 
far apart as you desire them to be in the C(mi- 
j)leted \\'ork. A second row of plain Russian 
stitch is then worked over the first, with the 
stitches on either si<le of the braid exactly half 
v\ay between those of the 
former row. Tlie threads 
of the twci rows of stitches 
cross each other in the mid- 
dle of the space, and form a 
•series of diamonds and tri- 
angles, and tlie residt is a 
very pretty insertion with- 
out further work. 

To place the wheels at 

the ])oints of intersection 

of the tlneails, the working 

thread is tirst carried to 

the middle of one end of 

the space, and then to the 

crossing of the first two threads. Here, if desired, 

a knot may fasten them together, but it is not 

necessary, and the effect is better if the weaving 

of the wheels is begun over the crossing of the 

loose threads. There being an uneven number of 

threads (five), the weaving thread will alternate 

over and under into a basket weave that will hold 

the work securely in place. The completion of 

each wheel must be on the side nearest the next 

wheel to be worked. The needle is passed behind 

or under two threads of the finished wheel, and to 

the next point of intersection (see Fig. 32), where 

the next wheel is worked. 

When it is desired to make the work more elab- 
orate, half wheels may be worked at each or at 
every alternate connection of the thread with the 
braid. These half wheels are formed by weaving 

14 



Fig. 30. IssEKTiox with Reveused Coxes. 

in the centre of the width of the space. The work- 
ing thread is then carried over and nnder the first 
two threads that will meet in the centre. The 
weaving thread having arrived at the point where 
the threads cross each other, the point or apex 
of the opposite cone is reached, and the weaving 
continued over these two threads until the second 
cone is comjileted at the arrival of the working 
thread at the edge of the opposite braid. The 
succeeding pairs of cones are worked in the same 
manner. 

Beaded Insertion or D'AIencori. 

As in Fig. 27 a row of Brussels net stitches, 
with the long loops opposite each other, is worked 
on both sides of the narrow space to be filled. 
The working thread is then carried once around 
the end loop to which it is nearest, and that 
loop and the one opposite are then joined to- 
gether by four connecting loops, whicli must lie 
in close parallel lines. They must never cross or 
lie upon each other. To make the.se loops the 
needle is thrust under tlie loop at the right side of 



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.32. ixseutios with 
Small Wheels. 





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Fig. 31. Beaded Insertion, or D'.^lewon Bars. 

the space, across to the opposite loop, under which 
also the needle passes, and is drawn out between 
the loop and the braid. This is repeated the other 



the working tliread through the edge of the bniid, 
over and under the two diverging threads, and 
through the edge of the braid on the other side 
until the half wheel is of sufhcient size. 

Bars of Point d'Angfleterre. 

Insertion with big wheels. When a more showy 
insertion is desired, a design with larger wheels 
may be used. To accomplish this a thread is car- 
ried lengthwise across the middle of the space to 
be filled and fastened into position in the braid at 
the ends of the space. The working thread is 
then carried by means of overcasting stitches 
along the open edge of the braid to the corner of 
the space. A loose loop is then formed across 
this end of the sj^ace by passing the working 
thread thrcnigh the opposite corner, and leaving 
the loop loose enough to form the vertical half of 
a diamond-shaped space. The thread is then car- 
ried by means of overcasting stitches a sufficient 
distance along the braid at the side of the space to 
be filled. 

The needle is then thrust over the former loop, 
under the horizontal threael tluit was first carried 

across the length 
of the space, and 
again over the 
thread of the 
loop. It is then 
carried to the op- 
posite side of the 
space and fas- 
tened to the edge 
of the braid at 
exactly the same 
distance from the corner as is its opposite end from 
the other corner. The thread is then carried di- 
rectly across the space from one end of this second 
or inverted, loop to the other, and just tightly 
enough to form a straight line across the space, 
lliis thread is then overcast to the middle of the 
space, where a wheel of four or more circlings of 
the threads is woven with the thread passing each 
time over the same threads of the intersection. 

Should the circles of the resulting wheels be 
prone to sliji out of place the needle may be thrust 
between the two threads of the twisted length, but 
with careful work this will not be necessary. The 
■wheel being completed, the thread is carried back 
of it to its opposite side, where the other half of 
the straight thread is overcast and the needle 



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Fig. 33. Insertion WITH LAUUEWii EELS. 



jjassed througli the braid. From this point a new 
loop is formed, reaching from one end of the 
straight twisted thread to the other. The thread 
is then carried along the braid and the work con- 
tinued. 

The beauty of this insertion lies in the exactness 
with which it is made. The space between the 
straight threads must always be exactly tlie same. 
and the loops must all be of the same length, so 
that each diamond may be exactly like its neigh- 
bors, and surround a wheel exactly the size of all 
the other wheels. 

Insertion with Branches. 

These are two very pretty leaf or branched in- 
sertions. They are especially appropriate for oval 
or leaf-shaped openings. The working thread is 
fastened to the middle of one end of the space to 
be filled and carried to the middle <rf the opposite 
end of the space, where it is carried by the needle 
under four or five threads of the open edge of the 
braid. This ensures the rounded open shape of 
the leaflet. The needle is then thrust, in a similar 
manuer, under the same number of threads, alonsr 
the left side of the braid near the upper end of the 
space, with the needle pointed upwards. Tlie loop 
so formed is left slack or loose enough to form the 
loose, open loops at the braid edges, and, for the 
middle of the loop, to lie close to the lengthwise 
thread or midrib to which it is soon to be tied. 




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Fig. 34. INSEKTIIIN WITH 

Branches. 



3.1- Insertion with 
Branches. 



The thread is then carried horizontally across the 
space, and the needle thinist with its point directed 
downwards under four or five threads of the braid. 
The thread is then carried in the midrib, and the 
needle thrust behind or under the first or left-side 
leaflet, the midrib and the second or right-side 
h'aflet, and under the point of the needle, which is 



then drawn tliroiigli, aad clic thi-e:id tightened in 
tlie buttonJiole knot which results. This com- 
pletes the first group of leaflets. The needle is 
tlieu again thrust into the braid at the left side of 
the space, and the second pair of leaflets begun. 

After the leaflets are tied together with the Imi- 
touhole knot, tlie working thread may be carried 
alternately over the leaves and under the midi'ib, cir- 
cling the knot a suliicient number of times to make 
a wlieel or rosette at the intersection of tlie leaflets. 

Leaf Insertion. 

An insertion with leaves in darning stitch is 
Bxcellent where a lieavy, rich eft'eet is desired. 
The working thread is attached to the end of the 
space at wliieli tlie first termin:d leaf of the inser- 
tion is to be worked. This tliread is then carried 
to the opposite end of the space, thrust througli a 
single loop of the braid, and carried back, un- 
twisted, to the starting point. It is then carried 
to the left side of the space, and attached to the 
braiil at that point by Iiaving the needle thrust 
under not more than two 
tlireads of tlie open edge 
of the braid. The thread 
is then carried to the rig'ht 
side of the space, and 
caught into the braid in 
the same manner at a point 
exactly opposite the point 
of attachment on the left 
side. The thread is then 
brought back to the mid- 
rib, or two long threads. 
The needle is then thrust 
behind all the threads, and drawn up in a tight 
buttonhole knot, as is shown in the illustration 
for insertion with branches, Fig. 34. 

The thread is then carried, for a second time, 
around the terminal or first leaf, which is then tilled 
from point to knot with a close succession of darn-' 
ing stitches over and under the threads outlining 
the leaf. At the completion of this leaf, the thread 
is carried around the left leaf, and passed again 
throuifh the braid at its point. This makes three 




Fig. .'!•'>. Leaf Insertion". 



foundation threads on one side, and two on the 
other side of the leaf. When an effect not so heavy 
is desired, the thread passing all around the leaf 
may be omitted. This makes two foundation 
threads on one side and one on the other, and is 
somewhat more diflicult to darn. This leaf is then 
darned, after which the leaf on the right side is 
finished in a similar manner. 

The outlines for the second pair of side leaves 
are then made and tied to the midrib with a but- 
tonhole knot as were the first two. The working 
thread is then p;issed one ami a half times around 
the two threads of the midrib that is to form the 
middle of the next trio of leaves. The needle is 
passed through the knot each time at the point of 
this leaf. This is at the base of the completed 
trio of leaves al'ove. The middle leaf is then 
filled with tlie darning stitch, as are each of the 
side leaves. The work proceeds in this way until 
the entire space is filled. 

Cluster Insertion. 

This is one of the most charming and use- 
ful of the insertions, and the ease with which 
it is made increases its popularity. It is equally 
aitju'opriate for straight or curved spaces. Two 
twisted parallel bars are worked, and the thread 
for the third bar (tarried across and overcast nearly 
to the middle, when the three bars, two twisted 
and one incomplete, are joined by fine, tight but- 
tonhole stitches, worked over them close together. 
The twisting of the third 
bar is then completed. 

The first and third bars 
of each group should be just 
loose or slack enough to 
admit of their being fas- 
tened, by the luittonhoie 
stitches, to the middle bar, 
without drawing the braid 
out of place. The first bar 
of each succeeding trio 
should be placed close to 

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16 



Network Stitches. 




limsflv. 




Single Net Stitch. 

^INGLE net stitch, called Brussels point 
(Point de Bruxelles), is the foundation 
of many of the net stitches, and consists 
of rows of buttonhole stitches worked 
The beauty of this stitch lies in the even- 
ness and regularity of the stitches. The loops 
should all be of the same length, and the buttonliole 
.stitches must fall in even lines, forming parallel 
diagonal lines both from the upper right-hand cor- 
ner toward the lower left, and from the npper left 
toward the lower right. The chief difficrdty in 
working this stitch is at the ends of the rows. 
The loops form diamond-shaped spaces, and great 
Dare must be taken at the ends of each row to so 
place the stitches that the fractional spaces shall 

be true parts of whole 
spaces. A little care 
in regulating the dis- 
tance along its edge, 
in carrying the 
thread to position 
for the next row of 
stitches, and trial 
placing of the thread 
tu note the effect, will soon lead to great profi- 
ciency in this respect. Every loop shoiild, in the 
following row, receive a buttonhole stitch, and all 
widening and narrowing must be done at the ends 
of the rows. The stitches must be kept even, and 
the loops of the same size. When this is done, 
the widening and narrowing attends to itself. The 
worker should never attempt to retain the same 
luimber of stitches in every row throughout an 
irregular space. The space must regulate the 
number of stitches, and accommodate only just 
so many as there is room for when keeping them 
at their regular size. This stitch may be made 
with large open loops, giving a very open, lacy 
effect, or the loops may be made small, and conse- 
<iuently the work much more close in appearance. 
Both for background and for filling in, this is a 
very useful stitch, and will be found especially 
ilesirable for large spaces. 

Venice originated Point proper, which may have 
been worked there in isolated instances before 
1600, but it came prominently forward towards the 
■middle of the seventeenth century. Designs given 



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Sin-i;le Net Stitch. 




rii; 39. Double Net Stitch. 



in the pattern books of the sixteenth century are 
all of the Reticella type, and cannot be bought 
under designation of real Point. 

Double Net Stitch. 

Double net stitch, also called Point de Sorrento, 
shown in Fig. 39, and the two stitch, is made ip 
the same manner as is the single net stitch, except 
that here the loops between the buttonhole stitches 
are somewhat less rounded ; that is, they are drawn 
a little more closely, and, instead of one buttonhole 

stitch, two are made 
close together. In or- 
der to keep them thus 
near each other, the 
second stitch must be 
drawn tightly up to 
the first. The same 
rules as to evenness, 
regularity, widening, 
and narrowing that are given for the single net 
stitch apply to this as well as all other net 
stitches. The two stitch, while taking twice as 
long as the single net stitch, is more easily made 
perfect, as the two stitches aid in keeping the 
work firm and true. This is one of the most sat- 
isfactory of the net stitches. 

Three Stitch. 

The, three stitch is also called Point de Sorrento, 
and is identical with the two stitch, except that 
three close buttonhole stitches are used instead of 
two. This results in a heavier, more solid effect. 
If a still closer effect is desired, four buttonhole 
stitches may be used. In this case the intervening 
loop should be just long enough to accommodate 
the four stitches that 
are to be placed in it 
when working the next 
row. These stitches 
maj' be combined and 
varied in different 
ways. A good effect 
is produced by alter- 
nating first a row of 

single nee stitch, and then a row of three stitch. 
Three rows of single net stitch may be followed 
by three rows of the two stitch. In fact it is the 
variation and combination of these stitches that 
form many of the intricate lace stitches. 




Fig. 40. Three .Stitch. 



17 



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Fl<:. 41. 



Bi'TTONiKJi.rD Nkt 
Stitch. 



Buttonholed Net Stitch. 

Where a network showing a heavy effect is 
aesired, buttonholed net stitch is excellent. A 
TOW of Brussels net is worked with wide, regular 
loops. Into each of these loops is worked a regu- 
lar number of buttonhole stitches sufficient to 
completely fill the loop from one buttonhole stitt'h 
to tlie next. The third row is like the Hrst — a 
row of wide Brussels net stitclies. Eacli .stitch is 
placed in the little loop between the groups of 
buttonhole stitches of 
the second row. The 
fourth row is like the 
second. ^Vhen finished 
the groups of close bnt^ 
tonhole stitches should 
form vertifial rows across 
the space filled. Care 
should be taken not to 
draw the work to one 
side or the other, and in this way pull these rows 
out of the vertical. In an oblong or long pointed 
space, the group of close stitches at the middle of 
the top row should extend to the extreme point 
of the opposite end. As buttonhole stitch is made 
more readily from the left to the right, the rows 
of close stitches may be worked in that direction, 
and the open rows from right to left. This is 
accomplished by beginning tlie wni'k at the upper 
j-ightJiand corner. 

Another buttonholed net stitch is shown in Fig. 
42. The first row of this stitch is formed by 
working three buttonhole stitches rather close 
together (with just a. little more than room be- 
tween them for anotlier stitch), and then begin- 
ning a second group of three stitches sufficiently 

far from the first to 
make the long loop be- 
tween the two groups 
eijual in length to the 
space occupied by the 
groups of three stitclies. 
In the second row the 
long loops are nearly 
filled with a close row 
(if liuttonhole stitches, 
and a single buttonhole stitch is placed in each of 
the two loops formed between the groups of three 
stitches of the previous row. The third I'ow is 
like the first, and the fourth row is like the second. 
The result is a more open, faucifid arrangement 




Fn;. 4-. niiT't'ONHdi.Kn Ni^.T 

Si 1T0]1. 



of stitclies than the preceding pattern, but, like it, 
the rows of close buttonhole stitches form vertical 
lines from end to end of the .space filled. 

Point de Venisc Stitches. 

Point de Veuise, often called shell, seed, or side 
stitch, is very popular, and suitable either for 
edgings or for the filling in of spaces. For the 
former a single row of ''shells" is worked ar-jund 
the edge of the completed lace. For filling in 
.sjiaces, the work is done in rows. Beginning at 
the right-hand corner of the space to be filled, a 
row of even, rather loose buttonhole stitches is 
worked. The thread is carried down the side of 
the braid the distance equal to the width of a 
stitch. Into the first loop is placed a buttonhole 
stitch, aud as in the Petit Point de Veni.se, this 
stitcli is tied by another buttonhole stitch worked 
sideways. This stitch should be far enough from 
the top of tlie buttonhole stitch being covered to 
accommodate three other rather tightly drawn 
buttonhole stitches, which are worked side by side 
and each above its predecessor until the last one 
covers the end of the loop upon which the shell 
is built. This shell being finished, a buttonhole 
stitch is placed in the next looi^ of the first row, 
and another shell worked upon it. In placing the- 
stitches of the shell, the 
neetUe is thrn.st under 
and at right angles with 
both threads of the but^ 
tonhole stitch to be cov- 
ered. 

The size of the shell 
depends upon the num- 
ber of side stitches 
worked, and upon how tightly they are drawn. 
Four stitches is the usual number. A more curved 
effect is obtained if the first stitch is quite tightly 
drawn, and tlie others made looser. The row of 
shells being completed, the third row is worked. 
This consists of a row of single net stitches, one 
buttonhole stitch being placed between each shell,, 
and the loop drawn up so as to fit like a saucer 
around tlie .shell above it. This gives a rather 
close effect, aud is decidedly pretty. Where a 
more open result is desired, the loops may be 
made larger. In this case the loops upon which 
the shells are made must also be made larger, as 
all the loops throughout must be nf the same size. 




Fii;, 4:1, Point iji: Veni.'Se.. 



18 




Fig. 44. Point de Venisk. 



In wideiiing, very great care must be taken not to 

juake the loop.s larger, 

■or stint the number of 

.sliells, and so give the 

Litter part of the work 

II straggly, loo.se appear- 

{I uce, very different from 

the first part. 

Another variation of 
I'oint de V e n i s e is 
>;hown in Fig. 44. In this the row of single net 
stitches is omitted, and a shell is worked upon 
every "loop of each row. This causes the shells of 
the first and third rows to slant toward the left 
while the shells of the second and fourth rows 
.slant toward the right. Worked in this wa}', the 
result is a heavy, sumptuous stitch, and is very 
beautiful. Perhaps the fact that it is so mxich 
aiiore slowly worked is the reason we find it less 
often in use than the more favored variety with 
tlie row of net stitches. 

Still another Point de 
Venise stitch, Fig. 45, is 
varied as well as made 
more open, and worked 
in less time by omitting 
every other shell. The 
alternating rows of Bru.s- 
sels net stitches are made 
as in Fig. 43. In the 
second row a loop is made, and a shell worked 
upon it. A second loop has the shell omitted. 
<;)u the third loop a shell is worked. Alternating 
in this way the row is finished. Great care must 
be used in putting in the net stitches of the third 
row to avoid skipping a stitch. A stitch must be 
placed close upon each side of every shell of the 
row above. This ensures a buttonhole stitch upon 
•each side of the single stitches between the 
shells. When finished the pattern shows rows of 
parallel diagonal lines of shells across the space 
filled. The beauty of this stitch depends upon its 
perfect regularity. 

A pleasing arrangement of Point de Venise 
stitches is made by working one net stitch beneath 
which three or four side stitches are placed. This 
stitch may be worked iu two ways. The loops 
between the single net stitches are made sufficiently 
loose to admit of the placing of the three or four 
siae stitches, which fill the loop until it is almost 
Straight. The work is begun at the upper left 




Fig. 45. Point de Vexise. 



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Fig. 4U. Point de Venise. 



corner, and when 
the opposite uji- 
per right corner 
is reached the 
thread is fas- 
tened to the 
liraid and carried 
down its edge for 
a space equal to 
the width of the 
stitches of the 

first row. The second row is like the first, except 
that it proceeds from right to left. This method 
causes the side stitches of every alternate row to 
point to the left, and the intervening rows to point 
to the right. When it is desired to have all the 
side stitches lie in the same direction, the thread, 
at the completion of the first row, is carried to the 
left side by thrusting the needle once through 
each loop of the first row, and in this way carrying 
it across the sjiace. This gives a corded effect to 
the loops. The thread is carried down the side of 
the braid, and the working of the second row is 
begun. 

These Poiut de Venise stitches maj' be distin- 
guished from each other by calling them accord- 
ing to the number of stitches used. The two-one 
Poiut de Venise stitch consists of two net stitches 
and one side stitch. The two-two stitch is com- 
posed of two net stitches and two side stitches. 
The three-one is made of three net stitches and 
one side stitch, while one net stitch and three 
side stitches is called the one-three Point de 
Venise. 

Petit Point de Venise. 

This stitch may be worked openly or as com- 
pactly as desired. The first method gives an 
open lacy effect, while the second shows a 
stitch almost solid in appearance, so little space 
is there between the stitches. Beginning at the 
upper left corner, a 
loose buttonhole stitch 
is first made, and a 
second buttonhole 
stitch is worked side- 
ways over or around 
the first one. This is 
drawn tightly, and so 
secures the first stitch 
in place. 




Fig. 47. Petit Poist de Venise. 
A second loose buttonhole stitch is 



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worked and tied by a " .side " stiteh, and this i« 
continued to the end of the row. The thread 
is then carried down the braid for a distance equal 
to the widtli of the stitch. Tlie second row is 
then worked in the same way as the first. This 
is continued until the space is finished. 

A pretty Point de V'enise stitch is formed by a 

union of the double 
net stitch, or Point 
de Sorrento, and 
the side .stitch. 
The tliread is fas- 
tened at the upper 
left corner of the 

FIO. 48. POINT DE VeNISeT™"" j.,^j^pg ^-o Ijg JJIJpfl^ 

and two net stitches set close together along the 

edge of the upper 

braid. These are 

bound together by 

a third buttonhole 

stitch set sideways 

across the base of 

the two net .stitches. 

To accomplish this, 

after the second net _ 

stitch is in place, ^'"- ^»- p^int de venise. 

the needle is thrust in the loop at the left of the 

two .stitches, aud 
drawn up closely 
in the buttonhole 
knot. Two more 
net stitches are 
then made in the 
edge of the braid 
at a distance from 
Ihe first pair equal 
to the space they 
occupy, and with 
the connecting loop drawn sufficiently tight to 
make the rows of stitches lie in .straight, parallel 
lines. The side stitch is then placed in position 
beneath them, and the work continued to the end 
of the row. The second row is like the first, except 
that in working from right to left the direction of 
the stitches is reversed. 

Variations of this stitch are formed by placing 
two side stitches beneath to guard the two net 
stitches, or by working three net stitches with one 
side stitch. Other variations of these useful 
stitches will suggest themselves to the lace 
maker. 



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Fig. 60. Point de Venise. 



Point d'Espagne — Spanish Point Stitches. 

The .Spanisli point stitches form a group of very 
distinctive difference from the other lace stitches. 
Instead of the scallf)})ed or looped appearance of 
the foregoing stitches, they ijroduce a rectangular 
effect of horizontal parallel lines connected at right 
angles by the vertical twisted .stitches. Their 
appearance is very open and effective, and, besides 
making very good filling-in stitches for the design 
of the pattern, they give excellent results when 
used to fill in backgrounds. As in all the tilling 
stitches, the lines must be perfectly even and reg- 
ular to obtain a satisfactory effect. 

Open Spanish Point. 

The long effect of the stitch is the result of the 
extra twist given the thread by the method of 
forming the stitch. The thread is fa.stened at the 
upper loft corner of the space and carried down 
the edge of the left-hand braid for the reijuired 
distance, or the width of the stitch, which varies 
in length according to the degree of fineness or 
coarseness of the 
woi'king thread. 
The thumb of the 
left hand is placed 
upon the thread as 
near the braid as is 
conveniently prac- 
tical. Tlie thread 
is then carried to I'l'-. .-.i. oprn sp.\ni.sii point. 

the right of the thumb, aud again placed under it 
in such a way that the thumb liolds down both 
sides of the loop which is beneath it. The needle 
is then thrust at the proper place through the 
upper braid, over the nearer thread of the loop, 
and under the farther thread. The thumb is kept 
on the loop until the working thread has been 
drawn nearly to the completion of the stitch. 
This is repeated to tlie end of the row. when the 
work is reversed and the second row of stitches 
put in. This is accomplished by forming the 
loo}) on the left side of the thumb, proceeding 
as before. This method of working the stitch is 
clearly illustrated in Fig. 51. 

Spanish Point. 

The first row of this stitch is worked just as is 
the first row of the preceding one. At the com- 
pletion of the row the working thread is car- 




20 




ried back to the 
left side of the 
space by passing 
ouce 
loop 
vow 
the 



the needle 
through each 
of the first 
and drawing 



Fig. 52. .Spaxi.sh Point. 



thread up tight. 
Only one stitch 
can successfully be 
taken up by the needle at a time, as putting the 
needle through several loops and then drawing 
the thread is very apt to pull the stitches out 
of place, and so make them slant instead of 
maintaining the desired vertical position. 

M'^hen the working thread has reached the left 
side of the space, it is carried down the edge of 
the braid and the second row of loop stitches 
worked. 

Spanish Point. 

A very pretty variation of this stitch is formed 
by placing the stitches in groups. See Fig. 53. 

Three Spanish point stitches are worked at 
regular, somewhat close intervals, as in the 
former stitch. Space enough for two stitches 
IS omitted, and the first stitch of the next group 
of three stitches is placed just where the sixth 
stitch would have been worked had not the 
stitches belonging to the fourth and fiftli spaces 
been omitted. 

These groups of 
three stitches are 
continued across 
the space and the 
working thread 
entered into . the 
braid. The needle 
is then thrust once 
through each of the 
two smaller loops 
and twice through 
the longer loop that separates the groups of 
stitches. When the thread has been brought 
clear across the space, it is entered into the 
braid and carried by overcasting stitches the 
necessary distance along the edge of the braid. 

The second row of the groups of stitches is then 
begun. The first stitch of the first group is placed 
in the loop between the first and second stitches of 
the row above. The second stitch is placed in the 




Fig, 53. Sr.^xisu Point. 



other or following loop, and the third or last stitch 
of the group is placed on the long loop just beyond 
the third stitch of the row above. This is contin- 
ued across the space. The thread is carried back 
to the left side of the space as before by thrusting 
it through the loops of the last row. 

Each succeeding row is begun by placing the 
first stitch to the right of the first stitch of the 
preceding row, and the result is a series of 
diagonal lines of stitches in groups of three, 
extending from the upper left corner of the 
space toward the lower right corner. 

Another combination consists of a group of six 
Spanish point stitches set close together, followed 
by a space wide enough for four stitches. See 
Fig. 54. Another group of six stitches is worked 
and followed by another space the size of the 

former one. 
This is con- 
tinued until 
the braid at 
the opposite 
side is 

reached. The 
thread is then 
carried in the 
regular way 
back to the left side of the space. A stitch is 
worked in the loop following the second stitch of 
the first group of six stitches of the ro^Y above. 
This is followed by a stitch in each of the two 
following loops, and results in a trio of stitches 
directly under the middle of the group of six 
stitches above. 

Three other stitches are worked in the open 
space or long loop, and these are followed by 
another trio of stitches worked under the middle 
of the second group of six stitches above. This is 
continued to the end of the space. The third row 
is like the first and the fourth is like the second. 

Another arrangement of the Spanish stitches 
is .shown in Fig. 55. The first row consists of 
stitches placed closely together at regular inter- 
vals across the space. At the completion of each 
row the working thread is overcast back to the left 
side of the space. The second row consists of 
four stitches placed in each of the first four loops 
between the stitches of the preceding row. One 
loop is omitted and another group of four stitches 
worked. This is continued across the space. The 
third row consists of groups of three stitches 



Fig. 51. Spasish Point. 



81 




Sl'ANlSil I'OIXT. 



placed lu thf luojis between the groups of four 
stitches of the second row. The fourth row (!on- 

sists of groups of 
two stitches phiceil 
between the 
groups of three of 
the ijrecediug row, 
;ind the fifth row 
consists of one 
stitch between the 
two of the fourth 
row and forms tlie 
point of tlie tri- 
angle. The sixth row is a repetition of the first, 
and a row of new points is begun. A long, narrow 
diamond design may lie made by reversing the 
order of the stitches at the beginning of the second 
I'ow of points. To accomplish this a row of two 
stitches wordd be worked on the row following 
the fifth row of sijigle stitches. This would be 
increased to tliree stitches in the next row, and so 
continued v.ntil the ninth row would l>e reachetl 
and worked like the first. 

Spanish Point Insertion. 

Long, narrow spaces may be filled with Spanish 
point stitches. Kow after row of tliese stitches 
are worked along the length of tlie space, and may 
be so continued until the opposite edge of the 

space is reached, 
when the returning 
thread is used to at- 
ta(^h the last row of 
stitches to the adjoin- 
ing braid. In the 
case of spaces of 
i r r e g u 1 a r width, 
when only one row 
of stitches remains 
to be worked at the 
narrow parts of the 
space, the pattern is turned around, and. the last 
row worked from the edge of the second braid, 
and each stitch, as the work proceeds, is attached 
In- overcasting stitches to the already finished 
rows. Where the space is wider, longer stitches 
are formed by increasing the number of the twist- 
ings of the working thread aroiuid the stiti;-h, as 
shown in the illustration. A little practice will 
enable the worker to adapt this stitch to spaces of 
■flifferent shapes. 




no. 56. Sl-ANtSII I'OINT INSI'.1!T1I>N. 



Shell Insertion. 

One of the most beautiful of all the insertions is 
composed of Spanish point stitches. The thread 
is fastened at tiie upper left corner of the space, 
or, in the case of an oval-shaped space, in thei 
ujjper i^oint. It is then carried by overcasting 
stitches down the left edge of the braid, a distance 
equal to the length of the Spanish point stitches. 
Into the middle of the braid, at the end of the 
space, four Spanish point stitches are worked, 
entering the same point in 
the braid. The thread is 
then attached to the edge 
of the braid at the right side 
of the space exactly the 
same distance from the cor- 
ner as it is on the left side. 
I'he working thread is over- 
I'ast once (or twice if the 
space be wide) over the 
straight thread connected 
with the braid at the right 
side and once over each 
small looji between the 
Spanish point stitches, and, 
finally, once or twice over 
the thread connected with 
the braid at the left side. 
It is then carried down the side of the braid the 
same distance as before, and four Spanish point 
stitches are placed between the second and third 
stitches of the first row. The thread is again 
fastened to the braid and overcast through the 
stitches to the left side of the space, and the work 
so continued until the space is filled. 

Spanish Net Stitches. 

The various arrangements and groupings of the 
Spanish net stitches form many beautiful and 

practical n e t w or k s . 
Where a very close ef- 
fect is desired, good 
results may be obtained 
by working row after 
row of close Spanish net 
stitches as shown in 
Fig. 58. Beginning at 
the upper left corner 
of the space, a row of 
Spanish net stitches is 
worked, with just space 




Fig. 57. Shell Inskktiox. 




Fig. 58. Si'.^NisH Net. 



22 



enough between them to jirovide room for the 
stitches of the next row, one of which is placed 
on each tiny loop oetween the stitches of the pre- 
ceding row. The second row may be worked 
from right to left, or, when a heavier effect is 
desired, the working thread may be carried to 
the left side by overcasting it once through each 
loop. 

Double Spanish Net 

Is tlie more open residt obtained when the stitches 
are arranged in pairs. Two close Spanish net 
stitches are worked ; a space .sutficient to accom- 
modate two more stitches is left open, and is 
followed by a second pair of stitches similar to 
the first pair. In other words, the stitches are 
exactly as in close Spanish net, except that every 

other pair of 
stitches is 
omitted. In this 
stitch, to obtain 
good results, it 
is necessary on 
reaching the end 
of each row to 
o V e r cast the 
working thread 
through the loops 
back to the left 
side of the space. 
This maintains 
the parallel effect 
•desired. The second row is exactly like the first, 
except that the pairs of stitches are placed upon 
the long bar between the pairs of stitches of the 
preceding row. 

Triple Spanish Net. 

Still another arrangement is called triple Spanish 
net, or treble Point d'Espagne. This arrangement 

is exactly 
like til e 
double 
S p a n i s h 
net, except 
that the 
stitchesare 
in groups 
of threes 
instead of 
being in pairs as in the double Spanish stitch. 




Fig. 59. DorBLE Spanish Net. 



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Fig. fil. Si'AxiSH Net. 



Fig. CO. Tbiple Spanish Net. 



Grouped Spanish Net. 

This illustration shows an arrangement of Span- 
ish net stitches in groups of six. Six close Spanish 
net stitches are worked from left to right across 
the space, with e.xactly the same space between 
the groups as they themselves occupy, so that the 
groups of six stitches of the next row, wliich will 
be worked on the bars between the .spaces of the 
first row, will exactly fill them, with no room to 
spare, and no crowding. Great care must be taken 
to keep the long loops or bars between the groups 
drawn sufficiently tight to keep the lower edge of 

the stitches 
exactly par- 
allel with the 
upper edge 
all along the 
length of the 
row. 

When the 
first row is 
completed the 
thread is car- 
ried to the left 
side of the 
space by overcasting it once through each little 
loop between the stitches of each group, and several 
time.s, carefully and smoothly, over the long loop 
or bar between the grouf)s. The second row of 
stitches is then worked in groups of six over the 
long bars of the preceding row, and the thread 
again brought, by overcasting, to the left side. 
The third and succeeding rows are then worked 
until the space is filled. When carefvdly done, 
the alternating filled and open spaces appear as 
little oblongs regularly placed. This stitch may 
be worked from side to side without overcasting 
the thread back to the left side after each row, but 
great care must be taken to get the loops or bars 
even and of equal length. 

Somewhat more elaborate is the network shown 
in Fig. 62. The thread is fastened as usual at the 
upper left corner of the space. Two close Spanish 
net stitches are worked. A space just equal to 
that required for five close Spanish net stitches is 
left without stitches ; then two more close Spanish 
net stitches are worked. This is continued to the 
end of the row. The working thread is then 
overcast once through each of the small loops 
between the pairs of Spanish net stitche.s, and 
several times over the long loop or bar. The 



23 




Vui. *i2. Spanish Net. 



second row consists of groups of live Spanish net 
stitches worked over each long loop or bar. The 

t h r e a d i s 
again overcast 
to the left 
side, and the 
third row be.- 
gun. This is 
like the first 
row, and is 
composed of 
Ijairs of Span- 
ish net stitches 
worked over 
the loops be- 
tween the 
groups of five stitches of the second row. After 
each row the thread is overcast to the left side of 
the si^ace, unless it is preferred to work alternately 
from left to right, and right to left. When finished, 
this network presents a broken check appearance, 
of oblongs and little squares, that is very eifective. 
In the Spanish Net stitch illustrated, in Fig. 
63 the thread is fastened in the corner and then 
carried by overcasting stitches along the edge of 
the braid about a quarter of pn inch below. A net 
stitch is then placed in the upper braid about one- 
eighth of an inch fmni the corner. This; is followed 

iiy two other net 
stitches set close 
together. A sec- 
I Did group of three 
stitches is t h e n 
worked at a dis- 
t a n c e from the 
lirst group equal 
to their own 
width. Bet".veen 
these groups of 
net stitches the 
thread is allowed 
to fall in a long loop that reaches a very little 
below the level of the thread at its starting-point. 
These loose loops and groups of tiiree net stitches 
are continued across the width of the space. 
The thread is then carried to the same distance 
from the corner as it is at the opposite side. 

In every long loop of the first row three close 
buttonhole stitches are worked, and the intervening 
thread drawn quite tight in order to foi'm a straight 
line across the space. The thread is then carried 




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Fm. 64. Spanish Net Stitch. 



along the edge of the biaid for the same distance 
as bel;ore, and three buttonhole stitches are worked 
beneath the three of the former row, leaving the 
long loop between each group. These three 
stitches are not placed in the loops between the 

former groups of 
.stitche.s, but the 
needle is thrust 
lietween the t\\'> 
threads of each 
buttonhole stitch. 
This brings the 
n e w r o w o f 
stitches exactly 
beneath the other 
three above. 

A variation of this stitch is shown in Fig. 64, and 
is obtained by working only two buttonhole stitches 
in each grouji of this row, and putting them on the 
loops between the buttonhole stitches of the former 
row. 

Venetian or Point de Sorrento Stitch. 

Point de Sorrento. — Line Stitch. — The Vene- 
tian stitches form one of the prettiest and most 
effective groups of stitches used. They are always 
less trans-parent than similar stitches without the 
straight line. When worked openly they present a, 
cobwebby, misty effect that is decidedly beautifid. 
The thread is fastened at the left-hand corner 

of the space to be 
filled, and a row 
of s i n g 1 e n e t 
stitches is worked 
across the space 
at I'egular dis- 
tances frcmi each 
other, and far 
enough apart to 
leave medium-sized loops between, as is .shown in 
the illustration. When the end of the row is 
reached, the thread is carried down the side of the 
braid, until it is on a line with the lower edge of 
the loops. It is then carried across the sj^ace in a 
straight line, and passed through the edge of the 
braid at the left side. Care must be taken to have 
the thread tight enough to admit of no sagging, 
but not tight enough to draw the braid one particle 
from its place, and each successive line must be 
exactly parallel with its predecessors. 

The second row of loops is then worked, and in 





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Fir,, n."). LixE Stitch. 



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Fig. 66. Venetian Stitc-h. 



every stitch the needle i.s thrust through the loop 
nbove and back of the parallel thread, so that it is 
always held with the loop in the twist ti' the net 
stitch, and foi-ms a part of the body of the lace. 

A very novel effect is produced by missing some 
of the loops of the network, and in the next row 
working the same number of stitches in the loops 
so formed. The result is a series of open spaces 
in the close net work that is very odd. These 
open spaces may be placed at regular intervals over 
the entire network, or may be so spaced as to 
form a design. In Fig. 66 the first row is a series 
of close buttonhole stitches. The thread is then 
carried back to the opposite side, and a second row 
of buttonhole stitches over it is begun. Four of 
these stitches are placed, and the next four omitted. 
The following six 
are worked, and 
the next four 
omitted. The next 
four are w o r k e d. 
The next row is 
worked w i t h o u t 
any omissions. 
When the o f) e n 
spaces are reached, 
the same number of stitches are worked in each as 
were omitted in the former row. In the following 
row the open space is left just between and below 
the two spaces of the tipper row. Another com- 
plete row follows. The sixth row is a repetition 
of the second row. 

Double Venetian or Cobweb Stitch. 

(Jue of the most beautiful and popular of all the 
lace stitches is the double Venetian. This is made 
in the same way 
as the single Ve- 
netian, except 
that, instead of 
a single button- 
hole s t i t c h in 
each loop, two 
are used. The 
two stitches aid 
each other in 

keeping the thread firmly in place, and make a 
very regular, substantial filling, that has a very 
fine lace-like appearance. The loop between the 
stitches is left loose and held iu place with a pin 
as .shown in the illustration. 



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Fig. 67. Cobweb Stitch. 



This stitch may also be made with three button- 
hole stitches in each loop, as shown in Fig. 68. 
W o r k e d in 
this way the 
effect is de- 
cidedly close 
and solid, un- 
less the loops 
are made suf- 
ficiently large 
to allow ample 
space for the 
three stitches. 






Flu «8. Venetian Stitch. 



Darned Figfures on Venetian Background. 

After a space has been filled with the plain, 
close Venetian stitch, it may be embellished in a 
variety of ways, and so made very effective and 
rich in appearance. With a fine linen floss, or 
other loosely twisted thread, pretty tufts or spots 
may be darned over two rows of the Venetian 
background. When worked at regular intervals, 
they add greatly to the richness of the work. 
Stars and trefoils in bullion .stitch, buttonlioled 
rings, and other fancy stitches may also be used. 

When a very solid, cloth-like effect is desired, 
the Venetian stitch is worked with the net stitches 
very close together. Only sufficient room is left 
for the placing of 
the net stitch of 
the succeeding 
row. The straight 
thread aids also 
in prixlucing an 
almost solid effect. 
This c o m pact 
method of work- 
ing this stitch is 
seen most frequently in Venetian lace, where it is 
used as a filling for leaves, scrolls, and various 
jjarts of the design to be thrown out most effect- 
ively by the open background of Ealeigh bars, or 
the even regular net ground. 

Spider or Wheel Stitch. 

This is a very ricli and beautiful filling for large 
spaces. Beginning at the upper left corner, a diag- 
onal line is laid across the space at an angle of 
forty-five degrees. The thread is then returned, 
but without twisting, to the first end of the diago- 
nal line, so that the two threads form a double line 






Flo. 69. Venetian Stitch. 



25 











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Fig. 70. SrniER oit Winoi-.i, 8tit('1i. 



Jyiug close together liut not cros.siug. At the se- 
lected distance a second line parallel with the first 
is laid across the space, and the thread as before 
returned to its beginning. This is repeated until 
the space is filled with rows of double parallel 
lines at equal distances apart. 

Beginning near the njjper right corner, a diago- 
nal line is laid across tlie first Hues at an angle of 
forty-five degrees, which makes it at right angles 

with the first se- 
ries. The thread, 
on its return to 
the starting jjlace, 
is passed three or 
four times aroiiud 
the threads of the 
i n t e r s e c t i o ns, 
which are not tied. 
T his working 
th read must al- 
ways pass under 
the double threads 
of the completed 
■series of jmrallel lines and over tlie single lines. 
When the wheel is sufficiently large, the thread is 
passed to the next inter.section (which in case of 
the first row is the braid). A second thread is 
thrown across the space jiarallel with the first, and 
upon its return wheels are made at each intersec- 
tion. This is continued until the sjiace is filled. 

Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Point). 

A very pretty arrangement of Brussels point 
stitches is shown in Fig. 71. A row of net stitches 

is worked in jiairs 
across the space. 
The two stitches are 
placed nearly but 
not quite close to- 
gether. A space 
slightly greater than 
that occupied by 
these pairs of 
stitches is left be- 
tween each group. 
The second row consists of a single net stitch 
placed between the pairs of net stitches forming tlie 
groups of the first row. The third row is formed 
by placing two net stitches in every loop formed 
■by the distance between the single net stitches of the 
■second row. The fourth row is like the second. 




Point de Bku.kklle.s. 




Fig. 72. Point de Bruxelles, 



Point de Bruxelles. 

Another variation of Brussels point is made by 
arranging the stitches in points or triangles. In 
Fig. 72, the first row consists of Brussels point 
stitches in an even, regular row just far enough 
apart from each other to easily accommodate the 
stitches of the next row. In the second row two 
stitches (or one loop) are omitted, and one net stitch 
worked in each of the next two loops. Two more 
stiti-lies nre omitted and followed by two net 

stitches, one 
placed in each 
of the two loops 
following. This 
arrangement of 
two stitches and 
an omitted loop 
is continued to 
the end of the 
row. 

In the third 
row one net stitch 
is j)laced between each group of two net stitches 
of the second row. This row should be worked 
just loose enough to allow the long loujts between 
the single net stitches to fall in very .slightly 
curved lines. The fourth row is worked by plac- 
ing three net stitches on each of the long loops of 
the fourth row. This is the first row of the second 
series of triangles, and is followed by a row of net 
stitches in pairs placed in the same way as in the 
second row, that is, two net stitches, one in each 
loop, and then the omis,sion of one loop, followed by 
two more net stitches. The next row is the row 
of single net stitches that form the points of the 
triangle. 

Larger triangles (see Fig. 73) are worked in the 
same way, except that the number of stitches in 
the triangles is increased, and consequently more 

rows are re- 
quired to com- 
plete the fig- 
ures. 

Thef irst 
row is the 
same continu- 
ous row of 
single net 
stitches as is 
shown in the 
s m a 1 1 e r tri- 



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Fic. 73. Point de Bku.kelles. 



26 



angles. In the second row four stitcnes are worked 
and one loop omitted. In the third row three 
stitches are placed in the three loops of the pre- 
ceding row, and so the work is continued till the 
points of the triangles are formed. 

In this stitch, the loops being longer, they must 
be kept tight or straight enough to prevent the 
work from becoming too full for the space it occu- 
pies, and so the group of five stitches that begin 
each series or row of triangles may just fill the 
long loop prepared for them between the single 
stitches of the last row. 

Many very pleasing results may be obtained by 
the arranging and grouping in various ways of 
Brussels net stitches. lu Fig. 74 the first row con- 
sists of a series of single net stitches set at regular 
distances apart. The second row is the .same 
until the middle loop is reached, when three net 
stitches instead of one Are worked. The single 

net stitches 
are then con- 
tinued to the 
end I if the 
row. In the 
third row a 
group of 
three net 
s t it ch es is 
placed in the 
first whole 
loop at t h e 
right of the 
group of three in the second row. A single net 
stitch is placed in the half loop at either side ad- 
joining the group of three in the second row. In 
the next whole loop following, a second group of 
three stitches is worked. The fourth row is like 
the first. This brings the three net stitches ex- 
actly below those of the second row, and completes 
the quadrilateral or diamond-shaped pattern of 
the desio;n. 

In the fifth row two figures are to be begun, so 
the first group of three stitches is placed in the 
third whole loop preceding the close stitches of 
the row before, and another group of three is 
placed in the third whole loop following the close 
stitches of the previous row. These two groups 
of close stitches are the upper ends of the two 
(luadrilateral figures to be worked. In the next 
row the 'close net stitches are, as in the third row, 
placed in the first whole loop at the right and at 



X " 


tW 


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7 J 










l[ i| 1 


1 


IB 


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MS 


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iii 










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- 3n 








T iij 








. . i»^!Lj!UJJLjSBC5SOOg 


- 


P = 


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= --rV^W^^^fhm^W%rV^=JS^ 




- 3^]w^^W^^^^^1^3 


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Fig. 74. PoisT de Bruxelles. 



the left of the group in the row above. The plac- 
ing of the groups in the seventh row just beneath 
those of the fiftJi row completes this group of 
quadrilaterals. 

Point de Bruxelles, "Pea" Stitch. 

One of the prettiest of all arrangements of the 
Brussels net stitches is the one commonly known 
as the pea stitch, because of the open pea-shaped 
spaces formed by the method of the grouping of 
the stitches. This .stitch is excellent for the filling 
in with networks of large spaces, and belongs to 
the design stitches, and not to the background 
stitches. 

A row of Brussels net stitches is worked across 
the upper edge of the space to be filled. They 
should be placed regularly at even distances apart, 
and with room enough between them to place the- 
stitches of the next row. In the second row a 
single net stitch is placed in the last loop of tlie 
first row. Two loops, which include three but- 
tonhole stitches, ai-e 
missed, and then 
one net stitch is 
worked in each of 
the next . two loops. 
Two move loops are 
missed, and then 
two more net 
stitches are placed 
in the next two 
loops, and so the 
w^ork is continued 
until the end of the row is reached. The third 
row is the row requiring care lest a mistake lie 
made. Three net stitches are worked on the long 
loop of the previous row, and a single net stitch is 
placed between the two stitches between the long 
loops. The fourth vow is like the second, and the 
fifth row is like the third. The long loop must be 
sufficiently loose to allow the curved appearance 
necessary to make the large openings nearly round. 

Greek Net Stitch. 

Greek net stitch is excellent for filling in large 
spaces, and is often used instead of spiders and 
twisted bars for the filling in of the background of 
lace patterns. As the beauty of this stitch lies in 
the perfection with which it is made, absolute 
regularity in the length and spacing of the stitches 
is necessary. The thread is fa.stened at the upper 




7.5. Point de Brc.xellus, 
" Pea " Stitch. 



27 






left coiuer of the space to be tilled unci carrieil 
down the side 
uf the braid a 
distance, ueai-ly 
twice the length 
of a Spanish net 
stitch. At the 
s a m e distance 
from the right 
of the corner, 
the needle is 
thrust into the 
edge of the fu;. tb. greek net stitch, 

braid, and a single Spanish net stitch worked. 
The thread is left h)Ose or slack enough to fall 
in a rather long or decided loop equal in length 
to two of the Spanish net stitches. These single 
stitches are worked at regular distances across the 
entire length of the space, and are lifted up or 
shortened by a thrust of the needle in order to 
lengthen the loops and keep the net stitches the 
length of one side of the hexagon under construc- 
tion. Each loop forms two sides of the hexagon. 
When the hrst row is completed, the thread is 
carried through the braid by a single stitch, and 
is overcast twice over each loop, evenly, and with- 
out drawing the loop out of its proper position, 
until the opposite side of the space is reached. 
The thread is then overcast along the edge of the 
braid the required distance, and a second row of 
single Spanish net stitches, like the first row, is 
made. The fourth row, like the second, consists 
<.)f two overcasting stitches in each loop of the 
previous row. 

Point Turque — Turkish Point. 

The distinctive feature of Turkish point is the 
way in which the threads are knotted. AVhen a 
diamond-shaped mesh is desired, the straight 
thread crossing the space may be omitted. 
When there is danger of not getting the loops 
exactly the same length, it is wise to thrust a pin 
through the pattern at the proper place, and pass 
the thread to form the loop around it. The expe- 
rienced worker will doubtless find this use of the 
pin unnecessary. The thread is fastened in the 
upper left corner, and is carried down the edge of 
the braid a distance from the upper braid equal 
to the required length of the loops. The first 
stitch in the upper braid is placed a distance 
from the corner just half the width of the re- 




PoINT TritQUE. 



quired diamond. As the triangles formed Dy 
each row of loops should be equilateral, each fol- 
lowing stitch should be a distance from the pre- 
ceding one equal to the length of one-half, or one 
side of the loop. To make the knot used in this 
stitch, the thread is laid in a circular loop just 
below the braid at the point of the proposed stitch. 
This loop is formed by passing the thread in a 
curve toward the right, extending close to the 
up])er braid, and ])assing around toward the left 
and over the beginning of the loop. The needle is 
then thrust through the braid, under the upper 
curve of the loop, 
over the lower 
curve, and d ra wn 
up into a tight 
k not. T h i s 
stitch, repeated 
at regular inter- 
vals between 
loops of exactly 
the same length, 
forms the first 
row. The thread 
is then attaclied 
to the braid at the right side, and carried down 
its edge to a point exactly in line with the 
middle of the loops. It is then carried across the 
space in a line parallel to the upper braid and 
attached to it. The next row is exactly like the 
first, the straight thi'cad taking the place of the 
upper braid, and the needle at each stitch being 
passed under the loop above, under the straight 
thread, under the upper curve of tlie laid loop, 
over the lower curve of the loop, and drawn up 
into a tight knot. 

Turkish Point. 

Auotlier form of Turkish jjoint is usually made 
without the straight parallel lines thrown across 

t li e space. 
They .may be 
made, if de- 
sired. The 
thread in this 
illu.stration is 
fastened i n 
the u p p e r 
right corner 
of the space. 
A short dis- 
tance from 




Kiu, ;s. Point Turcjue 



2& 



\. 



the cornel' a plain buttonhole stitch is worked in the 
upper braid. Close to this a Turkish point stitch 
is worked. At the required distance from this pair 
of stitches a second pair is placed, with tlie loop 
between the two pairs long or slack. This is re- 
peated to the end of the row. The thread is then 
carried down the side of the space, and the second 
row begun. This is like the first except that, being 
begun at the left side, the plain buttonhole stitch 
is each time at the left of the Turkish point stitch. 
Tliis is continued until the second and each suc- 
ceeding row is completed. 

Point de Filet. Net Groundwork Stitch. 

Point de Filet is an easy, speedy, and, at the 
same time, very beautiful stitch used for back- 
ground or groundwork, instead of Brussels net. 
It is i-eally an imitation of netting. It is worked 
diagonally across the space to be filled. The 
til read is fastened at the upper left corner of the 
space, and brought down the edge of the bi'uid a 
distance equal to one side of the desired S(juares 
j'f tlip network. It is then carried across the left 

corner of the 
space, and 
fastened t o 
the upper 
braid at a 
point equally 
distant from 
the corner. 
The loop 
mu.st be ju.st 
twice t h e 
length of the 
proposed 
square, s o 
tliut when held in place by the knots of the next 
row it will form two sides of the corner square. 
The thread is then carried along the edge of the 
ujjjier braid the same distance as before, and is 
fastened into the corner loop by means of a Turk- 
ish net stitch. The thread is then attached to the 
1)1-1 id at tiie left the same di.stanee as before from 
tht' adjoining, fastening. These rows of diagonal 
liMip.s. .secured by knots of Turkish net stitch, are 
cciiitinued until the space is filled. The beauty of 
this stitch lies in its perfect accuracy. The verti- 
cal lines must be parallel and the horizontal lines 
must be parallel. This necessitates the making of 
uii tiic limps of exactly the .same length. To facil- 




Fiii. 79. PuiNT DE Filet. 




Fig. 80. Poi.NT DE Filet. 



itate this, pins may be stuck into the pattern M 
the right places, and the thread passed under them 
when the loops are being made. The work may be 
made still easier, if, before the stitch is begun, the 
space to be filled is checked oft' on the pattern 
with pen or pencil. Upon the finished network 
the various stitches used in netting, and many 
beautiful lace stitches, may be worked. 

Point de Filet. 

This stitch shows another method of tying the 
knot in point de filet. The thread is secured to 
the loops above it by a single Brussels net or 

buttonliole stitch. 
The needle is then 
passed under this 
Inittonhole stitch or 
knot, over the work- 
ing thread, under 
it, and drawn up 
tightly. This 

method very closely 
simulates netting 
and makes a good 
background for other 
stitches. 
Bruges Stitch. 

The Bruges lace stitch is well adapted for the 
filling of large spaces, and may be used with or 
without the rosettes that give it its elaborate 
appearance. 

Fasten the thread at the front left corner of the 
space, and overcast it along the edge of the nearer 
braid for the distance of one-fourth of an inch. 
Carry the thread across the space to the back or 
farther braid, and fasten it with a buttonhole stitch 

just one-fourth of 
an inch from the 
liack left corner. 
Overcast the 
thread along the 
edge of the braid 
for a distance of 
one - sixteenth of 
an inch. About 
three-sixteenths of 
an inch from the back braid work a single button- 
hole stitch over the long thread thrown across the 
space. Over the length of this buttonliole stitch 
place two other buttonliole stitches close together 
and extending toward the front end of the space 




Fig. 81. Brtoes Stitch. 



This is exactly as trie " shells •' in Point de Veuise 
are made, oniy two instead of four stitches are 
used. This fomis the •• knots " that hold the 
parallel threads in place. One-half inch nearer 
the front braid work another buttonhole stitch over 
the long thread and fill its length as before with 
two buttonhole stitches. Repeat this at intervals 
of half an inch until the nearer or front braid is 
reached. Overcast the working thread along the 
edge of the braid for lialf an inch, and carry it 
across the space in a line parallel with the first 
thread. Fasten it with a single buttonliole stitch 
to the edge of the braid. If the thread is kept 
parallel, this point of attachment will be e.\a.ctly 
half an inch from the first tliread. Again carry 
the thread one-sixteenth of an inch to the riglit of 
the thread just fastened. At spaces exactly in line, 
from riglit to left, with the knots of the first row, 
make a new series of knots exactly one-half inch 
apart. Continue this until the entire space is tilled 
with parallel lines from front to back of the space 
and at even distances apart, and whose knots form 
parallel rows from right to left across the space. 
The work is now ready for the second series of 
parallel lines, which must intersect the first series 
exactly half way between the knots of the first 
rows. Turn the work around so that the finished 
lines extend from right to left instead of from 
front to back. This places the working of the 
second lines in the same position for working as 
were the first lines. Carry the working thread 
by overcasting stitches along the edge of the braids 
until a thread carried across the sjsace will inter- 
sect the parallel lines almost half-way between the 
first two rows of knots. Fasten this thread with a 
buttonliole stitch and overcast it one-sixteenth of 
an inch along the edge of the braid. Work a, but- 
tonliole stitch over this long thread just as far 
from the intersection of the two lines as are the 
knots of the first lines. Over this buttonhole .stitch 
work the two close buttonhole stitches that form 
the knot. Work another buttonhole stitch over the 
long thread exactly at the ])oint of intersection. 
Work the two stitches that are to form the knot 
over both the buttonhole stitch and the threads of 
the finished line. Draw these stitches tight. This 
knot holds the two .sets of lines together. At the 
proper place on the long thread (which is the same 
distance from the intersection as the other three 
knots surrounaiug it., and is also half-way between 
.he fir.?b and second parallel lines already finislied) 



work another linot. Continue iu this way until this 
line and the others which are necessary to fill the 
space are completed. This results in the open 
Bruges lace .stitch, which is very effective when. an. 
open network is desired. 

When it is decided to have the rosettes at the- 
intersections, tliey are worked as each intersection 
is readied. The work is exactly as above until 
the knot which ties the intersecting tlireads has 
been worked (see Fig. 81). Around this knot the 
working thread is woven two or three times, by 
passing it over and under the surrounding threads 
in the manner of making a spider, as shown by the 
position of the needle in Fig. 81. This weaving 
being comphited, the work of making the knots 
tluit form tlie rosette is begun at the space to 
the left of the long thread. In this right angle 
Vietweeu the front and left-hand threads two but- 
tonliole stitches, not too tight, are worlved over the 
last threads of the spider. The needle is tnen 
thrust through the spider from beneath the woric 
at tlie next angle, between the left hand and 
back threads, and two more buttonhole stitches are 
worked. This is repeated in the third and fourth 
angleis. The needle is then thrust through the 
sjiider from beneath near the long thread, and the 
rosette is completed. The knot just between this 
and the ue.xt point of intersection is worked, and 
then the knot that ties the next crossing tnread.'^t 
is made and tlie next rosette begun. This is con- 
tinued until a rosette adorns each intersection 
throughout the space. A variation of this stitch 
may be obtained by surrounding the centre with 
a spider, but omitting the outer knots. 



Point d'Angletenre. 

This ground networli is 
spaces. The thread is fa: 



excellent for large 
itened at the upper 
left corner, and 
i-arried along the 
upper V)raid the 
re(|uired distances 
for one elieck or 
square of the net- 
work. It is then 
carried across the 

. «iMi-.'i.TST'**.vT,' [■ •'^P'^'e to the oppo- 
^fj*^,f\„>ji_'yy<\^:.'^^ site side and en- 
tered into the 
FIG. »■!. I'oiNT ,/AN.M.EiEiMtK. i,,..^,^!^ aiwavs Kcex- 

ing the working thread perfectly parallel to 



m 



30 



the edge of the left braid. The woikiiig thread 
is then overcast along the edge of the front braid, 
a distance equal to the distance between the first 
tliread and the left braid. It is then carried to 
the upper or back braid and attached, forming 
another parallel line. These threads are contin- 
ued across the space, all equally distant, and all 
parallel. Similar parallel threads are then laid 
across the space from right to left, and form a 
network of little perfect squares. The " -ead is 
next carried in diagonal lines fronr the end of 
each alternate parallel thread crossing the squares 
from right to left, and from left to right, and 
•completing the network. 

The thread is fastened in the upper left corner 
and carried along the left braid to the first hori- 
zontal parallel threads. This is overcast, and 
when the first vertical parallel thread is reached, 
the needle is passed back of both threads, thus 
.securing the back one in the twist. Ac the first 
meeting of the four lines a half wheel is woven in 
an over and under darning stitch. The thread is 
then overcast in the same way to the next mee*"' ■ j 
of four threads, and a second half spider or wheel 
is worked. This is continued across this and each 
succeeding row until the space is filled. 

Point d'Angleterre Rosette Stitch. 

The thread is fastened at the upi^er left corner 
and overcast along the edge of the iijiper braid the 

required distance. 
It is then carried 
across the space 
to the lower or 
front edge of the 
braid and entered 
into it, making 
the t bread so 
stretched across 
the space parallel 
with the left 
braid. The work- 
ing thread is then 
overcast along the 
-edge of the front braid a distance equal to that 
between the left braid and the first placed thread. 
A second thread parallel to the first is then laid 
across the space, and is followed by other equally 
distant parallel threads until the right side of the 
space is reached. Similar parallel threads are then 
carried across the braid from right to left, over 





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f^ 


X: : 


1 II 


»« 


« 


3== : 



Fig. 83. Point d'Angleterre. 



and under, and at right angles to the first seriea 
The thread is then fastened to the left braid at the 
middle of the second square from the upper left 
corner. It is carried across the space diagonally 
to the \ipper right corner of the second upper 
square from the upper left corner, and crosses 
at the meeting of the horizontal and vertical lines. 
It is then carried one square to the right and again 
brought across the space in a line parallel with the 
first diagonal line. These parallel diagonal lines 
are continued across the entire space. The thread 
is then fastened to the riglit braid at the lower 
corner of the second square from the back right 
corner and carried to the upper left corner of that 
small square, where it makes the seventh ray di- 
verging from that point. The.se threads are not 
tied together, but the needle is passed over and 
under the seven rays in several circles to form a 
wheel. Then the needle is passed from under that 
side of the wheel having the seventh ray and 
through the last circle of the thread of the wheel 
at the opposite side. This supplies the eighth ray 
by tlie fastening of the thread into the braid at 
the upper left corner of the little square thus 
entered. The thread is overcast along the braid 
to the upper right corner of the square to the left, 
crossed diagonally to its lower right corner, and 
a second wheel made. This diagonal line is con- 
tinued across to the riglit side of the space and 
another wheel made at the next intersection of 
threads. The making of these diagonal lines and 
the wheels at the intersections is continued until 
the network is filled. 

Hour-glasses. 

Figure 84 shows still another arrangement of 
darning over the network described in No. 82. In 

this pattern two 
fans form little 
vertical h o u r- 
glasses. The 
thread is fastened 
to the upper left 
corner, carried 
along the left 
braid, and over- 
cast along the 
first horizontal 
parallel line to 
the first meeting 
of the parallel and diagonal lines of the network. 






Fig. 84. HouR-Gi,A.ssEs. 



31 



If preferred, these conneoting threads maj' 
be fastened at tlieir j)oint of meeting by a single bnt^ 
tonhole stitch. The three ni>per tlireads are then 
covered with a woven fan and tlie thread carried" 
ba,ek through the weaving to the centre. Tlie lower 
three threads are then covered with a- second woven 
fan and the thread again carried to tlio centre. 
The overcasting of the horizontal parallel thread 
is then oontinned till tlie location for the next pair 
of fans is reached. Tliis is continued until all the 
double fans are worked. 

Net with Rosette Stitch. 

For this exceedingly beautiful net work the Pe- 
nelope canvas, used for tapestry work, is imitated. 

The thread is 
fastened at the 
upper r i g h t 
corner of t h e 
space and over- 
cast along the 
edge of the 
right braid a 
distance equal 
to one side of 
the required 
larger square of 
the network. 




Fig. 85. Net with Rosette .Stitch. 
It is then carried to tlie left braid 



in a line parallel to the ujjper braid, attached to 
the braid, and overcast one stitch along its edge. 
It is again carried to the right side in a line 
parallel to the former one, and then overcast along 
the braid the length of tlie larger square. A 
second pair of parallel threads is passed across 
the space, and this is continued until the entire 
space is covered at regular intervals with these 
pairs of parallel threads. 

The thread is then overcast along the front 
edge of the braid a distance equal to one side of 
the larger squares and woven under the lower and 
over the upper thread of each pair of horizontal 
lines. It is then overcast one stitch along the 
edge of the braid and returned to the lower edge 
by passing under the upper and over the lower 
threads. This alternates the weaving. 

Upon this pretty network the rings are made. 
The thread is woven several times around the 
small squares and closely buttonlioled. The 
thicker the foundation of circling threads and 
the more raised the buttonholing upon it, the more 
effective will be the result. At the completion of 




Fig. 86. riREEK Trosses. 



each buttonholed ring the thread is securely fas- 
tened and then cut. This makes each little ring 
independent of the others. 

Greek Crosses. 

The network for this filling stitch of little Greek 
crosses is the same as for the half s])iders or wheels. 
When the net- 
work is com- 
pleted, the thread 
is fastened at the 
upper left corner 
and overcast to 
the first horizon- 
tal parallel line. 
This thread is 
overcast to the 
fir.st meeting of 
four threads, se- 
curing the verti- 
cal thread in the overcasting. From the centre 
of this group of four thread.s, or eight radii, the 
thread is passed over and under the middle and 
left upper threads, forming a little fan. The needle 
is then f>assed through this fan to the centre, and 
a second fan woven over the middle and lower left 
threads. The third fan covers the middle and 
right front threads, and the fourth covers the re- 
maining two tlireads. From the outer end of this 
last fan the thread is overcast to the next group 
of threads to be woven. A Greek cross of fans is 
thus made at every intersection of the vertical and 
diagonal lines of the network. 

Point de Reprise. 

The network for Point de Eeprise may be pre- 
pared in either of two ways. In the first way 

horizontal parallel 
lines are carried 
across the space at 
even distances apart. 
The thread is then 
attached to the left 
braid at the left end 
of the upper line, and 
is then entered into 
the upper braid at 
one - half that dis- 
tance from the upper 
left corner. It is 
then passed under the uj)per parallel line and 
again entered into the upper braid at a distance 




Fig. 



Point de Reprise. 



32 



equal to the distance between the upper thread 
and the upper braid. This is continued across the 
space and makes equilateral enclosures. At the 
completion of the first row of enclosed triangles 
the thread is at the right end of the upper line. 
It is then passed under the second line and back to 
the first, passing under both the first thread and 
the 'thread looped around it at that point. It is 
again passed under the second thread and back to 
the first, forming the equilateral triangles of the 
second row. This is continued row by row until 
the entire space is laid off in a canvas-like network. 
The second method of preparing this network is 
simpler. The parallel horizontal lines are laid as 
before. A series of diagonal parallel lines the same 
distance apart as are the horizontal lines are then 
woven over and under the first lines, across the 
space from the upper and right sides to the left 
and lower sides, crossing the horizontal lines at an 
angle of sixty degrees. A second series of diago 
ual lines is then woven in the same way and at 
the same angle from the upper and left sides to the 



right and lower sides. This comnletes the networlc 
of equilateral triangles. 

These triangles are then covered with cooes of 
darning. The thread is attached to the point or 
apex of the triangle to be covered, and the 'hread 
is passed over and under the foundation threads 
forming the sides of the triangle until tlio space 
is filled. It is then passed under the threads at 
the corner (which form the apex of another tri- 
angle) and carried down the side of the adjoining 
triangle to its apex. The darning of this triangle 
is accomplished and the work continued until the 
remaining triangles are covered. 

Another method of covering the triangles con- 
sists of the use of buttonhole stitches. The thread 
is attached to the apex of the triangle. Two close 
Inittonhole stitches are worked over the right 
foundation thread of the triangle. Then two are 
worked over the left side. In this way the work- 
ing thread passes from one side to the other of 
the triangle after every second buttonhole stitch 
until the triangle is filled. 



Combination and Miscellaneous Stitches. 




Combination Stitches. 

-IGURE 88 illustrates several stitches 
applied to different shaped spaces. In 
the leaf -shaped space marked A the 
stitch is worked as folows: 
Fasten the thread at the upper right corner 
of the braid. Make a loop across the space ard 
fasten the thread to the left side. Overcast one 
stitch along the edge of the braid and work seven 
buttonhole stitches into the loop. Attach the 
thread to the braid again and overcast two stitches 
along the edge. The third and fourth rows are 
Brussels net stitches. In the third row the stitch 
is taken in the fourth stitch of the group of seven. 
'The fifth row is like the second. 

For Fig. 88 B : Fasten the thread to the braid at 
the upper left corner. Carry the thread across 
to right side of the space, leaving the thread loose 
so as to form a loop. Overcast one stitch along 
the edge of the braid and stretch the thread back 
from right to left, keeping it perfectly straight. 
Overcast two stitches down on the braid, and 
work four buttonhole stitches into the loop and 
over the straight thread. The fourth row is an 
open network where the buttonhole stitches are 



taken between each group of the four close stitches. 
The fifth row is Brussels net stitches, and the 
sixth row is like the thii'd. 




Bullion Stitch Used for Background, 



<!3 



Point de Valenciennes. 

Point de Valencieimes is another form of dia- 
mond stitcn (see Fig. 88 (' ). The tliread is fastened 
at the upper left corner of tlie space and carried 
down the braid at the left side of the space, a dis- 
tance slightly more than one buttonhole stitch. 
Near, but not close to, the corner a row of eight 
close buttonhole .stitches is worked into the upper 
braid. A s^aace equal to three buttonhole stitches 
is omitted and a second row of eight stitches is 
worked. This is continued across the space. 

The thread is again carried down the edge of 
the braid at the right, and a buttonhole stitch is 
placed in the loop between the second and third 
stitches from the right of the first row. This is 
followetl by a .single close buttonhole stitch in 
•each of the next four loops of the group of eight 
.stitches. The result is five close buttonhole stitches 
worked in the middle loops of the row above, and 
leaves the two end stitche.s at either side to ex- 
tend beyond the five below. Into the loop be- 
tween the groups of eight two close buttonhole 
stitches are worked. Five more stitches are ])laced 
Vielow the next group of eight, and are followed l)y 
the two stitches on the long loop between the group.s. 
This is continued across the 
space. The third row consists of 
two buttonhole stitches placed 
in the two middle loops of each 
group of five stitches of the 
row above, and five stitches 
placed below the groups of two 
stitches. These groups of five 
are formed by placing two close 
buttonhole stitches close to the 
first stitch of the group of two 
above. One stitch is placed 
on the loop between them, and 
two close to the second of the 
two stitches. The fourth row 
consists of groups of eight 
stitches placed below the group.' 
of five of the row above. 
The fifth row is like the sec- 
ond, and the sixth is like the 
third. This arrangement of 
stitches form.s broad, flattened 
diamond.s, and is suitable for 
filling large spaces. Another 
variation of this stitch is shown 
in Fig. 89. 



Combination of Brussels. Net. 

The .stitches shown in Fig. 88 D may be used for 
wide or narrow spaces by increasing or decreasing 
the length of the long loops, or, in filling large 
spaces, the width may consist of alternate rows 
of the short and the long loops. 

The thread is fastened in the upper left corner, 
and one buttonhole stitch is worked into the upper 
braid one-third of the distance across the space. 
Two close buttonhole stitches are worked in the 
middle of the space. This is followed by a second 
single buttonhole stitch equally distant from the 
first. The thread is then carried to the braid and 
fastened. The second row is worked from right 
to left, and consists of six or more close button- 
hole stitches worked on the long loop, completely 
filling it. Two close buttonhole stitches are 
worked on each of the small loops, and the second 
long loop is covered with six clo.se buttonliole 
stitches. The third row is like the first, and the 
fourth row i,s like the second. 

The .stitch illustrated in Fig. 88 E, like the pre- 
ceding one, is suitable for broad or narrow spaces, 
and is used for wide spaces by repeating the stripes 
of the pattern. 




Fig. 88. CoMBi>'ATioN Stitches. 



34 



The tliiead is fastened at the upper left comer 
and carried down the side of the braid one stitch. 
A' short distance from the corner a single stitch is 
worked into the upper braid. Space for two 
stitches is omitted, and a second single stitch is 
worked. These stitches should occupy one-third 
the distance across the space. At the end of the 
second third of the space a single buttonhole stitch 
is worked, making a long loop extending across 
the middle of the space. Space for two stitches 
is then omitted, and a second single buttonhole 
stitch is worked. The thread is then fastened 
into the braid at tlie right and carried down one 
stitch. A single buttonhole stitch is worked into 
the short loop between the two buttonhole stitches 
above. Six or more stitches are then placed upon 
the long loop, filling it. A single stitch is then 
worked in the left short loop, and the thread 
attached to the braid. The third row is like the 
first, and the fourth is like the second. 

The stitch used in Fig. 88 F is the Petit Point 
de Venise and is described on page 19. 

Fans. 

Woven fans make a very effective filling (see 
Fig. 88). They may be made singly, in pairs, or in 
trios. They may be built like hour-glasses or like 
Greek crosses. They may have few or many 
foundation threads. They may have graduated 
points or they may have a flat end. 

To make a trio of fans as illustrated, the thread 
is fastened at the point of the braid selected for 
the base of the fans. It is then carried to a point 
on the opposite side of the space a distance to 
the left of the 
centre j ust half 
the width of 
the middle sec- 
tion or division 
of the fan. 
The thread is 
passed through 
the braid and 
overcast back 
to the base of 
the design, al- 
■ways over- 
casting from 
the worker. To do this the pattern is so held 
that the base is the farthest point in the space 
from the worker. This way of overcasting ensures 




Combination of Fans with Otmeu 
Stitches. 



a better '"wist to the threads. When the first thread 
is brought back to the base it is entered into the braid 
at the same point from whence it started. It is again 
carried across the space and entered into the braid 
at a point j ust as far from the centre to the right 
as the first one was to the left. This is overcast 
to the base. The third thread is entered into tlie 
braid a sufficient distance to the left of the left 
thread already in place and overcast to the base. 
The opposite right thread is then placed in the 
same way. The remaining distance at the left of 
the threads already in place is now filled with four 
similar threads, all overcast, equally distant and 
meeting at the base. The right side of the sf)ace 
is filled in the same way. The weaving of the 
fans should be begun with a long thread and at 
the base. The middle fan may be woven first. The 
thread is carried over and under the four threads 
alternately in a weaving or darning stitch and must 
be drawn just tight enough to keep the twisted 
threads in place, to preserve a sharp point at the 
base and an even edge at the sides of the fan. 
When it is desired to begin the pointing, the two 
outer threads are dropped and the weaving is con- 
tinued over and under the two middle threads. 
When the weaving is completed the needle is 
passed fropa the point to the base of the fan 
through its centre, or between the threads of the 
weaving, so as to be invisible. The thread is now 
in place to begin the weaving of the second fan. 
This and the third one are then woven. 

I 

Woven Rays. 

Woven rays form another showy effect (see 
Fig. 88). The base is naturally the converging part 
of the space, and the outer edge of the group of 
rays is the side of the larger curve. Each ray ha.s 
its own base and these bases are located close 
together, so that each, though a part of the whole 
central effect, is com])lete in itself. 

The desired positions of the outer ends of the 
rays are selected at ecjual distances from each other, 
and three threads for each ray, diverging from its 
own base, are put in position and overcast. These 
are covered with the over and under darning or 
weaving stitch throughout their entire length. 
All weaving must begin at the narrowest point in 
the design to be woven. The thread may be at- 
tached to the braid at the completion of each ray 
or may be carried back through the interior of the 
first ray and overcast to the base of the next. 



35 



Diamond Stitch. 

AVheu a rieli, showy effect is desired, there is no 
stitch more appropriate for hirge spa(^es than the 
diamond stitch. The beauty of this stitcli lies in 
its regularity, and in keeping the diamonds suiti- 
ciently close together and in straight rows. The 
thread is fastened in the upper left corner and 
brought ilown the side of the braid the distance of 
one buttonhole stitch. 
At a short distance from 
the corner, eijual to the 
.space necessary for two 
stitches, a group of four 
liuttonhole stitches is 
worked. These stitches 
mu.st be just far enough 
apart to admit, on the 
second row, one similar 
.stitch on each of the 
loops between them. 
These four stitches being 
comjileted. a sjiace ecjual 
to three s t i t c h e s is 
omitted, and one button- 
hole stitch worked. An- 
other space of ecjual 92 
length is followed by a 
second grouji of four 
.stitche.s. These groups 

of four stitches and kh;. 89, diamond. Fifis.ooaml 91, 
. 1 ii 1 Point de Sokkento. Fig. 92, 

smgle stitches are con- 3^,^^,,,^ i^seution. fig. 93, 

tinned across the space k.m.tted ru.ssiak stitch. 

to be tilled, great care 

being taken to keep the spaces between them of 

equal length. The first row being ctmipleted. the 

thread is carried down the edge of the braid one 

stitch. 

In the second row begins the alternate increas- 
ing and decreasing of the diamonds started by the 
tirst row. One buttonhole stitch is placed on the 
long loop, close to the right side of the single stitch 
of the tirst row. This is followed by a second 
single stitch placed close to the left side of this 
same single stitch of the first row. Into each of 
the three loops between the four stitches of the 
next group of the first row, a single buttonhole 
stitch is worked. In working the first of these 
three stitches care must be taken to nuike the loop 
between this and the group of two stitches already 
made of the same length as the loops between the 
groups of the first row. All the long loops throngh- 




93 



out the work must be of the same length. At each 
side of the next single stitch of the tirst row a 
single buttonhole stitch is worked, both stitches 
being kept close together. Into the loops between 
the following group of four stitches three button- 
hole stitches are worked. This is continued to 
the eud of the rcjw. The third row also consists 
of groups of two and three stitches. Into the loops 
between the stitches of the groups of three in the 
second row two buttonhole stitches are worked, 
and this is followed by three stitches below the 
following group of two. The first stitch is placed 
on the long loop close to the left of the two stitches ; 
tlie second stitch is placed between them, and the 
third on the long loop close to the right of the two 
stitches. Two stitches placed one in each of the 
two loops of the next group are followed' by three 
stitches below .the next group of two. This is con- 
tinued to the eud of the row. 

The fourth row, like the first, consists of groups 
of four and single stitches. Below the group of 
three stitches, at the left of the space, four stitches 
are worked, care as usual being taken to keep the 
first and last of this group, which are worked on 
the long loops, close to the other two. This group 
of four stitches is followed by a single stitch be- 
tween the two stitches of the row above, rnd com- 
pletes the half diamond begun at the first row. 
The next group of four stitches follow.s, and so the 
work is continued to the end of the row. 

The fifth row begins the new diamonds below 
the half diamonds begun at the first row, and di- 
minishes the diamonds begun by the single stitch 
of the first row. Two stitches are placed below 
the single stitch, aud are followed by a group of 
three stitches below the group of four of the pre- 
ceding row. This is continued to the end of the 
row, and is followed by the sixth row, which is 
composed of groups of three stitches below the 
groups of two stitches of the preceding row, and 
groups df two .stitches below the groups of three. 
The seventh row is like the first, and completes 
the alternate whole diamonds begun by the first 
row. 
Point de Sorrento. 

Point de Sorrento is very similar in appearance 
to the double net stitch. The method of placing 
the stitches makes it exceedingly firm, and, where 
an open network is desired, this stitch is very 
practical and beautiful. The thread is fastened 
at the upper left corner of the space, and at equal 



36 



Jlistiuices i.uo buttouhole stitches are worked, close 
together. Che first is a plaia buttonliole stitch 
worked inin the edge of the braid; the second 
stitch is I'laced close to the first, and is jjassed 
through it. To do this, the needle is th"ust both 
throLigli the braid and between the two threads 
that form tlie sides of the loop of the first stitch, 
anil is llieii drawn up close in a buttonhole stitch. 
Ai the proper distance from this pair of stitches 
a se.'.ond buttonhole .stitch is worked in the edge 
of the braid. Into the loop c1 -his stitch a .second 
biiM.oidiole stitch is made as before, and so the 
work is (umtiuued to the end of the row. The 
rows are all alike, each pair of buttonhole stitches 
being phK'cd on the loop between the two pairs of 
stitclies nhove, and each pair of stitches is inter- 
locked 

Point de Sorrento. 

This stitch should not be worked too closely. 
The more open it is, the more showy the effect. 
In making buttonhole stitches from right to left, 
the thread, must be thrown or carried arormd into 
position for each stitch, wliile, when working from 
left to right, the thread naturally falls into jjosi- 
tiou. and the e.\.tra movement of placing it is 
obviated. Hence, it is always w^ell when begin- 
ning a stitch, to so regulate your work that the 
rows having most buttonhole stitches may be 
worked from left to right. Because of this it is 
best to fasten the thre.id for this arrangement of 
Point de Sorrento at the upper right corner of the 
space. At equal distances, and somewhat far 
apart, groups of two buttonhole stitches, placed 
rather close together, are worked across the space. 
The thread is then carriel down the edge of the 
braid the length of a buttonhole stitch, and the 
second row of stitches begun. On the loop be- 
tween each pair of loose buttonhole stitches of the 
first row a group of three close buttonhole stitches 
'is worked. The third row is like the first, that is, 
two rather loose buttonhole stitches are worked on 
each of the long loops between the groups of 
three stitches of the second row. The fourth row 
is like the second. 

Bullion Insertion. 

V-'heu a heavy, showy in.sertion is desired. Fig. 
9i! is excellent. The thread is fastened at the 
ujiper right corner and carried down the edge of 
the braid a distance equal to the length of a Span- 
ish net stitch. Into the upper braid, at the middle 



of the space, a single Spanish net stitch is worked, 
and the thread attached to the edge of the braid 
at the left side, a distance from the corner equal 
to the distaui^e the thread at the right side is from 
the right corner. The thread is tlien carried one 
stitch down the edge of the braid, and on the 
left long loop three close buttonhole stitches are 
worked. Through the loop between the second 
and third stitch, the needle is thrust f oi' about half 
its length, and the thread is wound around its 
point ten or twelve times. The thumb is then 
placed upon the coil of threads, the needle drawn 
through, and the thread pulled up so closely that 
the coil assumes a circular shape. 

This is followed by three more buttonhole 
stitches on the long loop. The long loop at the 
right of the Spanish net stitch is covered exactly 
as was the left loop. The three close buttonhole 
stitches are followed by the picot in bullion stitch 
and completed by three more close buttonhole 
stitches. The third row, like the first, consists of 
a single Spanish net stitch placed on the loop in 
the middle of the second row. The fourth row 
is like the second. When the space to be filled 
is rather wide, a greater number of buttonhole 
stitches will be necessary on either side of the 
bullion stitch. 

Knotted Russian Stitch. 

Knotted Russian .stitch is a very neat, easily 
made, and effective insertion. The space is first 
filled with plain or twisted Russian stitches made 
at even distances apart, and somewhat close 
together. When the space is curved, care must 
be taken to regularly place the stitches on the 
outer curve at an equally greater distance apart. 
This ensures regularity in the result. When the 
space is entirely filled, the thread is passed to 
the middle of one end of the space, and a close 
buttonhole knot is tied tightly on each single 
thread of the insertion as it passes the middle 
of the space. 

The stitch is especially useful for filling leaf or 
other long narrow space. 

Point Lace proper was not produced to any ex- 
tent before 1620. whatever may be said to the con- 
trary. Reticella work of the seventeenth century 
is the nearest approach to it, but stOl retains 
traces of plaiting and Genoa stitch, which were 
never employed in real point. Point proper became 
the dress lace par excellence under Louis XIV. 



G)mbmation Stitches. 

Aiiiitlier pretty network is made by a eonibiua- 
tion of Brussels net and Spanish net stitches, as 
shown in Fig. 94. The thread is fastened at the 
upper right corner of the space to be filled, and a 
row of Brussels net .stitches worked at regular in- 
tervals. The thread is then fastened to the edge 
of the braid at the left of the space, and overcast 
along its edge a distance equal to the length of 
the Spanish net stitches. Into the first loop of 
the Brussels net stitches of the first row a single 
Brussels net stitch is worked. Into the second 
loop three Spanish net stitches are placed. The 
third loop holds one Brussels net .stitch, and into 
the fourth are worked three Spanish net .stitches. 
Tliis is continued to the end of the row. The 
third row is like the first — a row of open Brussels 
net stitches. The first stitch is placed at the right 
of the three Spanish net stitches of the row above, 
and the second is placed in the loop at their left. 
In this way the trio of Spanish net stitches is 
considered as one stitch, and the loop between the 
first and second Brussels net stitch encloses them 
all. The next Brussels net stitch is jjlaced in the 
next loop of the row above, and the work so con- 
tinued to the end of the row. The fourth row is 
composed like the second, of single Brussels net 
and trios of Spanish net alternating. The Spanish 
net stitches are placed in the loops below or under 
the single Brussels net stitches of the second row. 
This results in the Spanish net stitches occurring 
in diagonal lines across the network, and is more 
graceful and artistic than if placed in lines under 
each other. 

One of the prettiest of networks is compcsed of 
alternating rows of Spanish net and Brussels net 
stitches, as shown in Fig. 95. The thread is fas- 
tened at the upper left corner, and a row of single 
Spanish net stitches is worked at regular intervals 
far enough apart to admit on the loop between 
them five or six close Brussels net .stitches. When 
the opposite edge of the space is reached, the thread 
is attached to the braid, and overcast along its edge 
the required distance. A group of five or six close 
Brussels net (or buttonhole) stitches is worked over 
pach loop Ijetweeu the Spanish net stitches. These 
Brussels net .stitches must be evenly and closely 
worked and there should be enough of them to fill 
closely, but not crowd, the loop upon which they 
are worked. Each loijp of the first row of stitches 
is filled in this wav with the Brussels net stitche.s. 



Tlie thread, upon reacliing the end of the row, is 
again attached to the braid and overcast along it.s 
edge the length of the Spanish net stitch. The 
third row consists of the single Spanish net stitches 
placed on the little loop between the groups of 
Brussels net stitches and just under the stitche.s 
of the first row. The fourth row is like the second. 
When completed the network shows a pattern of 
open squares, with the heavy lines of Brussels net 
stitches reaching in parallel lines from right to 
left across the space, and the lighter Spanish net 
stitches forming parallel lines at right angles to 
the Brussels net stitches. 

A similar but less geometrical network is made 
wholly of Brus.sels net stitches (see Fig. 96). 

The thread is fas- 
tened at the upper 
left corner and a row 
of open Brussels net 
stitches is worked at 
legular intervals 
across the space. 
The thread is then 
( ivercast along the 
edge of the braid as 
usual, and a second 
row of open Brussels 
net is worked into 
the loops of the first 
row, one stitch being 
]>laced in each loop. 
The third row is the 
close row. Into each 
loop of the second 
row is worked five or 
six close Brussels 
net, or buttonhole, 
stitches. There 
should always be 
the same number of 
the.se stitches in each 
Iof>p, and there should be enough of them worked! 
closely together to nearly fill the loop. A row of 
open Brussels net stitches is next worked, one 
stitch being placed on each loop between the groups 
of close buttonhole stitches of the third row. The 
next, or fifth row, is like the second, and the sixth 
row is like the third. 

An exceedingly delicate and attractive stitch is 
shown in Fig. 97. The thread is attached to the 
upper right corner of tlie space, and three rows of 




OoiiniNATiox .Stitches. 



P,S 



open double net stitch are worked. To aoeouiplish 
this, two buttonhole stitches close together, and 
drawn rather tight, are worked at regular intervals 
into the braid across the sj^ace. The second row 
consists of two close buttonhole stitches worked 
into each loop of the first row. The third row is 
like the second. At the completion of the third 
row the thread is overcast along the edge of the 
braid for a distance about equal to that necessary 
for a Spanish net stitch. A single buttonhole 
stitcli is worked into the first loop of the preced- 
ing row, and left somewhat loose. Point de Venise 
or side stitches are now used. A close buttonhole 
stitch is worked over the single net stitch close to 
the loop to which it is attached. This is drawn 
closely and followed by three or four more side 
stitches set closely together. There must be 
enough of them to so fill the long loop that there 
is only a slight downward curve to that part left 
uncovered, and into which the next row must be 
worked. When the first group of side, or Point de 
Venise, stitches is completed, another single long 
Brussels net stitch is worked into the next loop, and 
this in turn is filled with the same number of side 
stitches as were used to cover the first long stitch. 
Ttiis is continued to the end of the row, and is 
followed by three rows of double net stitch, after 
-which the row of long Point de Venise stitches is 
repeated. This is continued in the same order of 
tliree rows of double net and one of Point de 
\'enisp. until the space is filled. 

Combination Stitch. 

In Fig. 98 is shown a pretty combination of 
Brussels net, Spanish net, and Venetian stitches. 
The thread is fastened at the' upper left corner, 
and two rows of Brussels net stitches are worked. 
The thread is then overcast one stitch lower, along 
the edge of the braid, at the side of the space, and 
then carried in a straight line across the width of 
the space and through the braid at the right side, 
just below the second row of Brussels net stitches. 
Two close buttonhole stitches are worked over each 
loop, and in every instance over the straight thread 
also. This makes the Venetian stitch. The thread 
is again carried across the space, and a second row 
of Venetian stitch worked. In this row one button- 
hole .stitch is worked between each of the stitches of 
the row above. The working thread is then overcast 
along the edge of the braid the required distance, 
and a Spanish net stitch is worked between every 




Fig. 98. Combination Stitch. 

Brussels Net, Spanish Net, and Venetian 

Stitch. 



other stitch of the row above. The working thread 
is then carried twice across the space, and should lie 
in close parallel lines just at the edge of the loops 

of the row of 
Spanish net 
stitches. A row 
of Venetian 
stitch is then 
worked over 
these two 
threads, and the 
the loops of the 
Spanish net 
stitches by plac- 
ing two Brussels 
net stitches on 
each loop be- 
tween the Span- 
ish net stitelies. If preferred, only one straight 
thread may be carried across the space for this row 
of Venetian stitch. A second row of Spanish net 
stitches is then worked, one between every two 
Venetian stitches of the row above. This places 
the Spanish net stitches exactly under the Spanish 
net stitches already worked in the row above. Two 
rows of Venetian stitch are next made and the 
space is completed by the working of two rows of 
Brussels net. 

A very pretty effect is produced by alternating 
two or three rows of Venetian stitch with one of 
Spanish net throughout the space. In this case 
the Brussels net stitches at the beginning of the 
network are omitted, and the network should begin 
with one row of Spanish net stitches and should 
also end with a row of the same. 

Combination Stitch. 

Anothei' pretty stitch is shown in Fig. 99. The 
thread is fastened at the uj^per right corner and a 
row of open Brussels net stitches is worked across 
the. space. The thread is overcast along the edge 
of the left braitl a distance equal to the Brussels 
net stitches. A single net stitch is worked in the 
first loop of the row above. This is repeated at 
the second loop. Into this second stitch a group 
of four close buttonhole stitches is worked. The 
thread is passed through the middle of the net 
stitch and drawn up in a rather close buttonhole 
stitch. Three other similair stitches are worked 
close together in the same ' opening. A single 
Brussels net stitch is placed' in the next loop of 



39 



the row above, and 
this single Brias- 
sells net stitch is 
followed by au- 
other cluster of 
four stitches with- 
in the single Brus- 
sels net s t i t c h 
placed upon tlie 
next loop. T h i s 
is repeated to the 
end of the row. 
The third row is 
like the first and tlie 

Combination Stitch. 




Fig. 9'J, Combination .Stitch. 
fourth is like the second. 



This exceedingly beautiful stitch was taken 
from a piece of lace made in Ireland. The thread 
is fastened at the upper left corner. It is then 
held by the tliumb, or .secured by a pin, in a long 
loop, and at a di.stauce to the right of the corner 
equal to one side or half of this long loop five 
close buttonliole stitches are worked. A second 
long loop is secured, and five moi-e buttonhole 
stitches worked. The third long loop follows. 
These loops must be of exactly the same length. 
The thread is entered into the braid at the left, 
and overcast along its edge a distance eijual to 
two buttonhole stitches. Into tlie first long loop 
two close buttonhole stitches are worked. These 
are held in place by the tliuml), and two more 
stitclies are jilaiu'd nn the middle loops of the five 

stitclies of the row 
above. Two more 
stitclies are then 
placed on the next 
long loop, and are 
followed by two 
on the middle loops 
of the next group 
of five stitches. 
This is continued 
to the end of the 
row. 

The thread is again attached to tlie braid, and 
two close stitches are worked at the left of the 
fir.st group of two stitches of the .second row. One 
stitch is placed upon the loop between the group 
of two stitches, and close to them at the right two 
more close .stitches are worked. This makes a row 
of five close buttonhole stitches under the two of 




Fig. 100. Co>iiiiN.\TioN Stitoh. 




Fig. 101. Combination .Stitoh. 



the row above. The thread is not carried up to 
the next group of two stitches, but a long loop is 
secured, as in the first row, and five close button- 
hole stitches are worked below the group of two 
stitches, swinging on the long loop of the row 
above. Another long loop is secured, and five 
more close stitches worked. This is continued 
across the space. The fourth row is like the sec- 
ond, and the fiftli is like the third. 

Combination Stitch. 

Fig. 101 is a very showy stitch, suitable for heavy, 
sumptuous effects. The thread is fastened at the 

upper right cor- 
ner, and a row 
of large loops is 
made by work- 
ing single Brus- 
sels net stitches 
rather far apart, 
and making the 
loops between 
somewhat long. 
The thread is at- 
tached to the left 
braid and car- 
ried down one stitch. A row of ten close button- 
hole stitches is then worked upon the first loop, 
filling it smoothly but not tightly. The left 
thumb is tlien jilaced fii-mly upon the second loop 
to prevent its being jmlled out of shape, and to 
bring the stitches close up to tlie edge of the braid 
in order to preserve the scallojied effect. The first 
buttonhole stitch is then placed upon the second 
loop and drawn up very tightly to the braid. The 
other nine stitches are then worked, and the thumb 
placed upon the third loop, ready to assist in the 
shaping of the next curve. This is continued to 
the end of the row. The third row is like the 
first, except that the buttonhole stitches are placed 
between the fifth and sixth stitches of each group 
of the row above. The fourth row is like the 
secimd. 

Connected Needle-made Picots. 

Connected needle-made picots make a pretty 
finish for the edge of a piece of lace, and are made 
after the lace is completed. The thread is at- 
tached to the edge of the braid with a buttonhole 
stitch. Over this another buttonhole stitch, called 
a .seed or side stitch, is worked. This is the little 



40 




Point de Venise stitch already given. The thread 
is then carried over and through the loop, and is 

tied with a 

second b u t - 
tonhole knot 
or side stitcli. 
This is re- 
Fii.:. 102. cciN.N'Ki.TFi;) I'liiiTs peatcd at 

regular intervals, leaving the loops between of 
uniform size, and long enough to fall in graceful 
curves. 

Isolated Needle-made Picots. 

Another metliod of finishing the edge of lace is 
to make isolated picots. These have open 
pendent loops, and resemble to some extent the 
machine-made edges. The thread is attached to 
the braid with a buttonhole stitch. A pin is then 
thrust through the pattern, upon which the lace 
is still basted, at a point indicating the required 
length of the picot. The thread is then passed 
around this pin from riglit to left, and crossed 
again to the right, forming an oval loop. It is 
then passed across the loop again, and the needle 
thrust behind the buttonhole stitch and the end 
of the loop over the thread that again crosses the 
picot, and drawn up in a tight buttonhole knot. 
At the required distance from the first picot, a 
second buttonhole stitch is made into the edge of 
the braid, and the thread between this and the 
finished picot is drawn up to form a straight line 
pirallcl with tlie braid. The pin is again placed 

in p o s i tion, 
and the second 
picot is made 
and tied with a 
butt o n h o 1 e 

Fig. 10.3. Isolated riroTS knot, as be 

fore. These picots are repeated at regular inter- 
vals along the edge of the braid. 

Eng^Iish Wheel Insertion. 

One of the prettiest and most adaptable 
stitches for narrow spaces, straight or curved, 
is the Englisli wlieel insertion shown in Fig. 104. 
When the space is straight the bars must be 
equally distant and parallel, but when it is 
curved the arrangement of the bars must be 
regulated by the curve, closer together at the 
inner side and farther apart at the outer side, 
always evenly spaced and always maintaining 
the direction of radii from a common centre. 
The making of these bars is shown in Fig. .5. 





Fig. 104. E.\Gi.isH Wheel 
Inseriio.n. 



When they are com- 
pleted a thread is car- 
ried from one end to 
the other of the space 
(tied at each cross bar 
when the space is a 
curve) and tjien twisted 
back upon itself, and a 
web woven at each in- 
tersection with the cross 
bars. These webs are 
made to keep their shape 
by passing the thread 
through instead of over 
and under the twists of 
the bars. 

Half-Bar Insertion. 



For an easy effective insertion stitch the half- 
bar insertion, Fig. 105, is excellent. The thread 
is secured at one end of the space, and carried 
in a plain Russian or buttonhole stitch into 
the braid at one side of the space. A single 
stitch is taken into the braid just below the 
first one to keep the work from curling. Close 
buttonhole stitches are then worked upon the 
bar thus formed, the number depending upon 
the width of the space and the effect desired. 
Two or three may be sufficient or the bar may 
be covered with them almost to the centre of 
the space. 



Buttonholed Russian Stitch. 



Plain Russian stitch, F 
tion for the insertion show 
the entire space has 
been filled in with the 
plain Russian stitches 
the working thread is 
secured to the middle 
of one of the end braids 
and the desired number 
of buttonhole stitches 
worked over each of the 
foundation s t i t c lies. 
The illustration shows 
this insertion with a 
decoration of one, and 
of three stitches over 
each foundation stitch. 



ig. 2-1, is the founda- 
n in Fig. 106. After 




1(1.'. II M.F I'.M: 1\si:r- 



41 




Fig. lUH. BrTTiiMii>i.Eii 
Russian Sti'immi. 



Knotted Russian Stitch. 

Anotlier variation of 
plain Russian stitch is 
shown in Fig. 107. After 
the space has heen filled 
with the plain Russian 
stitch, spaced far enough 
apart to give the desired 
effect, the working thread 
is overca.st in a close even 
coil along each diagonal 
line of the Russian stitch 
.ilniost to the edge of the 
br.iid. Here a single but- 
t(!nliole stitch is taken 
around the entire founda- 
tion stitch and drawn up 
into a tight knot. These 

knots nnist he maintained at an even distance 

from the braid. 

Twisted Brussels Net. 

A veiv effective variation of Brussels net is 
shown in Fig. 108 and is 
excellent where a uniform 
stitch a little heavier than 
the single Brussels net is 
desired. A single row of 
Ijuttonhole stitches is worked 
into the braid from left to 
right at uniform distances 
apart across the space. The 
working thread is then car- 
ried back to the left by pass- 
ing it once into each loop between the button- 
hole stitches. The second row consists of a 
single buttonhole stitch worked into each loop 
of the first row, passing each time between the 
loop and the overcasting thread. This is con- 
tinued until the space is filled. 

Point de Venise Bars. 

An original adaptation of Point de Venise 

or shell stitch 
(Figs . 43- 
-f.5), is shown 
in Fig. lOi) 
.ind is a very 
u s c f u 1 ar- 
rang e m e n t 
for the many 
little spaces 
that require 




Fig. 107. Knotted 
Russian Stitch. 



ll#M#i#ii 


z = 


" ' LjLM^JLM<=iM;M^ 




ruI.VT DE VKNISK BAKS. 



a little more than the plain twisted bar. As is 
clearly shown in the illustration, the thread is 
carried across the space, entered into the braid 
and a single stitch below taken. A single but- 
tonhole stitch is 
worked across 
this bar at the 
point selected 
for the shell. 
Across this and 
at right angles 
to it a second 
but t o n h o 1 e 
stitch is worked 
and is succeeded 

by two or three more, each worked between its 
predecessor and the bar. The working thread 
is then entered into the right braid, completing 
a bar parallel with the first one. 

A Knotted Edge. 

^lany times a hand-made edge is preferred 
to the little machine-made braid that is usually 
used to edge needle-made laces. A single row 
of Point de Venise shells makes a beautiful bor- 
dtr, but when something less time-consuming is 
desired the pretty little edge shown in Fig. 110 
is excellent. The work always proceeds towards 
the right. The thread is secured to the braid, 
brought to the right and curled back to the 
left in .1 loop which is held down by the left 
thumb. The needle is then entered into the 
edge of the braid, passed through the loop and 
drawn up into a rather close knot. The spac- 
ing of these stitches nuist be uniform except 
in turning curves, where the stitches must be 
set more closely together, but the connecting 
loops left suffi- 
cientlv loose to 
allow the work 
to lie. flat. 

Brussels Net. 




Fir,. 110. 
A Knotted Edce. 



Fig. 108. Twisted BttrssEi.s Net. 



A very at- 
tractive o])en network is shown in Fig. 
in. A row of rather closely spaced button- 
hole stitches is worked entirely across the space. 
In the second row a single buttonhole stitch is 
worked at regular intervals into the previous 
row enclosing each time six of these stitches. 
In the third row four rather loose buttonhole 
stitches are worked, or hung upon, each of these 



42 



loop 

fifth 

hole 



large loops. 

Tlie fourth 

row consists, 

like the 

s e c o n d, of 

the large 

loops placed 

each time on 

t h e middle 

of the group of stitches above. The 

row, like the third, consists of four button- 

stitcjies on each of the loops above. 




Bkissi:i,.s Net. 




Fii; 



1 li;. HiA-MoxD Stitch in 
llicrssKi.s Nkt. 



Diamond Stitch in Brussels Net. 

The diamond arrangement of Brussels net 
stitches shown in Fig. 112 is ver_v showy and ef- 
fective for filling in large spaces. Groups of six 
rather closely set buttonhole stitches are worked 
at regular intervals with a space between the 
groups equal to 
the width of one 
of them, and with 
the loop kept long. 
The second row 
consists of a group 
o f three button- 
hole stitches work- 
ed into the three 
middle loops of each group above and three 
liuttonhole stitches worked on each long loop. 
The third row is composed of groups of six 
stitches worked under each three of the preced- 
ing row, two stitches to the left of the first stitch 
above, one on each loop and two to the right of 
the last or third stitch. The loops between the 
groups are left long and the next row, like the 
second, consists of three stitches in each long 
loop and three below the groups of six. 

Spanish and Brussels Net- 
Figure 11J3 is a simple combination of Spanish 

and Brussels net stitches. As the Spanish net 
stitch is always worked more 
easilv from left to right the 
work is begun at the left and 
a single row of the Spanish 
net stitches (Fig. 58), worked 
across the space. The second 
row consists of a single Brus- 
sels net. stitch (Fig. 38), 
worked in the loop between 
each of the Spanish net stitches 




above. These rows of Spanish and Brussels net 
are worked alternately until the space is filled. 

Ringed Raleigh Bats. 




Ki.\c;i;b I!aj,eii:ii Bars. 



Fig. 11.1. Spani.sh 

AND Brussels 

Nkt. 



This is one 
of tlie richest 
a n d m o s t 
beautiful o f 
the lac e 
stitches a n d 
will greatly 
add to the 
beauty of any 
piece of lace 
in which it is 
used ; see Fig. 
1 1 -i . The 
rings may be 
the fine 

Flemish machine-made variety or they may be 
made by the workei'. When this is preferred the 
foundation of each ring is prepared by winding 
the thread a sufficient number of times around a 
ring gauge (Fig. 1) or other suitable cylindrical 
implement. These windings are held together by 
overcasting them with the working thread, and 
the rings, not yet buttonholed, are basted into 
position on the pattern. They may be spaced 
regularly and the bars arranged in a geometri- 
cal design as shown in the illustration or they 
may be placed without regard to design and the 
bars put in according to necessity — cither ef- 
fect is good. After the rings have all been se- 
curely fastened to the patteru by means of a 
suflicicnt number of stitches to hold them se- 
curely the bars are worked. The thread is fas- 
tened to the braid at any point, carried across 
to the nearest ring, and through it, and the bar 
so made covered closely with buttonhole stitches 
back to the braid. • At any given point in the 
bar a picot 
may b e 
placed. 
This is 
m a d e b y 
w o r k i n g 
three close 
button -hole 
stitches be- 
t w e e n the 

last two on the bar and then continuing the 
buttonholing until the bar is completed. Often 
these bars must be from ring to ring and not 





connect w i t h 
the liraid at all, 
and often the 
working thread 
must be carried 
along the ring 
until the desired 
location for the 
beginning of the 
next b a r i s 
located. T h e 
last time the 
thread e n ters 
t h e ring a 
covering of 
close button- 
hole stitches is 
worked over it. 



Fig. lie. I.K.lt' IN.SKKTION. 



Insertion. 

A pretty little insertion is shown in Fig. 11.'). 
A single buttonhole .stitch is worked at regu- 
lar intervals into the braid along the entire 
length of one side of the space. The same 
treatment is given to the other sifle with the 
•^■^itehes jilaced exactly opposite those of the 
first and the woi'king thread passed once 
through each loop of the opposite row. Should 
the space \aiv in width at any point the con- 
necting of the two sides may be omitted, and 
after the buttonholing of the second side has 
been completed the working thread carried down 
the open space and a single buttonhole stitch 
worked into each loop alternately. This re- 
sults in a plain Russian stitch worked into the 
loops instead of into the braids. In wider sep- 
arations of the braid the working thread may 
be passed once into each free. loop and the whole 
drawn up and cither buttonholed closely or 
overcast several times more, and then, if the 



- T 


II 1 


iM^iy?^^ 


W^frf 


i^ 


= 1 


3B 


H!i!ll 


im 


i = 


= = 


^^^^^2 


; ; 


^^^^^^s 


: : 


= - 


^™_^ 


wm^'ftrft S^nS^WW^OTfil'Hff^tfi 







I'l'.. 117. niAM»iM» llrsKiN IN nitlsSEl.s Ni:'l 



size of the enclosed space warrants, filled in 
with any preferred web or stitch. 

Leaf Insertion. 

A very handsome insertion is shown in Fig. 
116 and may be varied as the ingenuity of the 
worker may dictate. The working thread is 
secured at one end of the space, carried across, 
entered into the br;iid, and overcast or twisted 
hack to the point at which the first leaf is to 
be worked. Here it is secured by a single but- 
tonhole knot left just loose enough to admit 
the needle, and from this point is entered into 
the braid on the side and at the location at 
which the lower end of the leaf is to be. It is 
then overcast one or two stitches along the 
braid and carried back into the buttonhole knot 
in the midrib. From here it is again entered 
into the braid to form the third rib of the leaf, 
overcast back to and passed through the but- 
tonhole knot. 
This results 
in two single 
a n d o n e 
twisted bar 
upon which 
to work the 
leaf a n d 
brings t h e 
working 
thread to the 
s t a r t i n g 
point of the 
w caving, 
which is done Km. lis. .Nirr Stitch i.v C'lueLES. 

b y passing 

it over .uid under the bars ur ribs until a leaf 
of solid wea\ ing of sufficient size has been made. 
The working thread is then passed down 
through the weaving to the base of the leaf 
and the overcasting of the midrib then continued 
by twisting to the point on the opposite side 
of the space at which the second leaf is to be 
located. 

The illustration shows three varieties of these 
leaves. The first is the simple three-ribbed fan. 
The second is a fan of five ribs and may be 
varied and given a pointed or leaf shape by 
dropping the two outside bars when the leaf 
is half finished and continuing the weaving over 
the three inner ones only. A third leaf is shown, 
which is given the curved leaf shape by slightly 
drawing the last fe« rows of weaving to con- 
form to the shape desired. 




44 



Diamond Design in Brussels Net. 

Figure 117 shows anotlier very handsome dia- 
mond design in Brussels net. The first row 
consists of singh' buttonhole stitches worked 
at intervals so spaced as to make a loop long 
enough to accommodate eight ratlier closely set 
buttonhole stitches, and these long loops sep- 
arated by a shorter loop. In the second row 
eight buttonhole stitches are worked on each of 
the long loops, but no stitches on the shorter 
loop. In the third row five stitches are worked 
under the groups of eight and two stitches on 
the loop connecting the groups of eight. In 
the fourth row two stitches arc worked under 
the groups of five and five stitches under the 
groups of two. This is done by making two 
stitches to the left, one on the loop between 
and two to the right of Ciich group of two. 

In the fiftii row eight stitches are worked un- 
der each group of five — two to the left, one be- 
tween each of the five and two to the right of 
the group of five. No stitches are worked be- 
tween the groups of two. The sixth row is like 
the third and the seventh like the fourth, and 
the work so continued until the space is filled. 



Net Stitch in Circles. 

In large circular spaces where webs or radia- 
ting stitches are not desired the size of the space 
may be reduced by a circling of Brussels or 
Spanish net stitches worked at regular inter- 
vals into the braid and drawn up by overcast- 
ing the thread once into each loop; see Fig. 118. 
If once circling the space does not reduce its 
size sufficiently any desired number of successive 
circlings may be worked, each stitch into the 
loop above. As the size of tiie space grows less 
the stitches will become smaller and closer to- 
gether, and sometimes it is advisable to omit 
every alternate loop of the preceding row. The 
final circling of stitches may be merely gathered 
into a circle or may be further finished by a cov- 
ering of close buttonhole stitches, or a little web 
be woven across the opening. The working 
thread is then overcast from circle to circle 
back to its starting place in the braid and fas- 
tened. Medallions of this kind can often be used 
as inserts for dainty lingerie, and for such a 
purpose the centre space could be filled with a 
woven wheel. Such medallions would be pretty 
in the corners of a handkerchief. 



Net or Applique Lace* 




'ANY beautiful effects may be obtained 
by combining lace braids and stitches 
with net. iMarie Antoinette is a net 
or applique lace on a larger scale. 
The same methods may be employed to make 
the finest and daintiest of filmy laces. In the 
former, cords, rings, and various heavy showy 
braids are used to produce flowers and foliage, 
bow-knots and scroll effects. In the finer laces 
the regular point and honiton lace braids are 
used. 

The net is basted carefully and smoothly on 
the stamped pattern. Much of the perfection of 
the finished work depends upon tiie neatness and 
exactness of this part of the work. The lines 
of the pattern will be clearly seen througii the 
net. and over these the braid is basted. 

Where the net underneath is to be cut away 
the edge of the braid must be fastened to the net 
with close buttonhole stitches of fine thread. 
The inner curves must be fastened into position, 
;ind, if the net is not to be cut away, these edges 
must also be buttonholed to the foundation. 



With care the drawing of the inner curves into 
{)()sition may be done with the buttonholing. 
When this can be done the overcasting is unnec- 
essary. 

When the net is not to be cut away the braid 
may be attached by close overcasting stitches. 
A row of braid almost always outlines the edge 
of the lace. This is also buttonholed firmly to 
the net and has an edge of purling overcast to its 
outer edge. Occasionally the braid is omitted 
and the purling alone is buttonholed to the net. 
This makes a lighter but less durable finish for 
the lace. The various lace stitches are then 
worked into the design of the braid. In honiton 
applique the braid medallions are buttonholed 
into position according to the pattern, which is 
usually a floral design. The stems of the various 
leaves and flowers are soTnetimes worked in tent 
stitch and sometimes arc darned into the meshes 
of the net. The centres of flowers are usually 
finished with needle-made buttonholed rings. 

Instead of the lace stitches used in the point 



45 



r^*.R 6 1912 



applique, a very protty uffoct is obtained by fill- 
ing in the spaces with darned net stitches. 

Dots may be sprinkled over the net by weav- 
ing the thread around and around a selected 
mesh of the net. Another way is to woi-k bird's- 
eye stitches, using several threads. These bird's- 
eye stitches make pretty leaves and sprays when 
worked in the design of the lace. A third 
method of dotting the net is to work little but- 



tonholed rings at regular inter\.ils, or the tuiy 
rings used in point lace may be added if the net 
is heavy. 

When the lace is finished it is removed from 
the pattern, and the net to he removed from un- 
der medallions ,ind lace stitches is carefully cut 
aw ay. The edge is also cut close to the button- 
holing tiiat holds the lace edge in position. The 
lace is then pressed under a damp cloth. 



How to Wash Lace* 




jf^O wash lace successfully, plenty of time 
and great care are necessary'. There 
are instances where hurried work is 
followed by success, but the chances 
.•'.;'(' against it. A Battenberg doily became soiled 
in the making, so the maker rubbed white soap 
<-n it, thrust it in a basin of hot water, and 
rubbed it vigorously between her hands, until all 
trace of soil was gone. She then pulled it out 
into siiape, placed it between two towels, and 
rolled it up. When nearly dry, she ironed it, 
still between the towels, and, strange to say, 
that doily showed no bad results from its rough 
treatment. 

A still more remarkable instance was that of a 
fine modern jioint lace handkerchief, made with 
thread No. 1000. 'I'liis handkerchief accidentally 
went with the family linen to the washerwoman. 
The adventures it «ent through at her hands 
will forever remain a mystery, but when it 
reached home it was white and clean, ironed and 
folded, and none the worse for its experiences. 

But these cases are rare, and are also unfor- 
tunate, as they lead to carelessnes.s in accom- 
plishing a work that should receive the most 
c^irefnl treatment. Sometimes all that is neces- 
sary to clean a piece of lace is to lay it between 
two sheets of white or blue paper, first sprink- 
ling it well with powdered magnesia. Then place 
it between the leaves of a book, .md allow it to 
remain for several days. When the magnesia is 
shaken out. the lace will be found to be very 
greatly impi'oveil. I>ace placed between sheets 
of blue paper will keep white longer than when 
placed between white paper, or laid away in a 
box. 

W^hen actually washing is necessary, take a 
glass bottle whose body is as nearly cylindrical 
as po.s.sible. Half fill this with sand or water, 
to prevent the water when boiling from tossing 



the bottle about too violently in the kettle. Aery 
carefully wind the lace around this bottle, and 
cover it with a layer of cheesecloth or muslin. 
A still better way is to baste the lace smoothly 
anfl exactly on a piece of cheesecloth, then wind 
it securely around the bottle, and cover the 
whole with another layer of the cheesecloth. 

Into a gi'anite saucepan put some cold water, 
a small piece of soap, and, if the lace is very 
dirty, a pinch of salt. Into this plunge the lace- 
wound bottle, and let the water come to a boil. 
As the water gets dirty, pour it off, and replace 
with more cold water .ind soap. Continue this 
treatmi'Tit until the boiling water remains per- 
fectly clean. Then remove the bottle, and plunge 
into a basin of clean cold water, and rinse thor- 
oughly. .\llow the -lace to remain on the bottle 
until it is dry, then remove it .-md separate from 
the cheesecloth. 

When real lace has become stained or greasy 
from wear, place it in a bath of pure olive oil, 
and allow it to remain for several hours or even 
a day or two. This gives to the lace the soft- 
ness of texture it possessed when new. After thi.s 
is accomplished, wind the lace on the bottle, and 
proceed with the boiling, as already described. 

When the lace is too large to wind around a 
botth'. b.iste it evenly and securely to a piece of 
cheesecloth, with small stitches in parallel lines 
across the surface of the lace. Baste another 
piece of cheesecloth over it, and boil in a series 
of waters. After the rinsing, which must be 
accomplished by pressing and squeezing, but 
never by wringing, pin the cloth upon which the 
lace is Iiasted smoothly to a sheet stretched in 
curtain frames; or. if this is impossible, to a 
sheet stretched and pinned over a carpet. Al- 
low the lace to dry, and then remove from the 
sheet and from the two layers of cheesecloth. 

If vou wish the lace starched, dissolve a suffi- 



?0 



1\. 



-c 



cient amount of starch in cold water. Boil half 
of it, and, when partly cool, stir in the uncooked 
half and add cold water until the mass is of the 
consistency of cream. Into this dip the lace, 
and gently squeeze out the extra amount. Lay 
the lace in a flat mass in the left hand, and spat 
it thoroughly with the right until the starch is 
well worked in. Repeat the process if desired, 
and roll the lace in a towel and leave for some 
hours. 

To color lace a cream shade add a few drops 
of black coffee to the starch. To make the lace 
a gi'eenish hue use a little cold tea. 

Machine laces may be ironed directly upon 
their surfaces. First carefully and smoothly 
pull all the picots into place and see that the lace 
is exactly in its original shape; iron until dry. 
Then pull the lace along its entire length be- 
tween the fingers from the footing or engrelure 
to the opposite edge. Pass the iron again over 
its length. The pulling relieves the lace of the 
stiff, starched effect, and makes it as pliable as 
new lace. 

To iron unstarched lace place it right side 
down upon a pad or ironing-board covered with 
several thicknesses of white flannel. Over this 
spread carefully a damp cloth and press with a 
hot iron until this cloth is thoroughly dry. This 
is also the way to press new'ly made lace, and 
should be done as soon as the lace is removed 
from the pattern. A little white sugar added to 
the water in which this over-cloth is dampened 
will stiffen the lace, and is in some cases much 
better than starch. Another excellent method 
is to dampen a piece of new organdy or other 
white goods containing starch or dressing. Place 
this over the lace and iron till dry. This gives 
a crisp new appearance to the lace without mak- 
ing it at all suggestive of starch. Another 
method of washing lace is to soak it about fifteen 
minutes in a bowl of suds made of white soap 
and water. Pour thi'^ off and replace with a 
clean suds. Place the basin where the sun will 
shine upon it. Change the lather twice a day 
and let'the rays of the sun restore the lace to its 
original whiteness. When it is clean rinse it in 



several clear waters, pressing but never squeez- 
ing, and drop it in a dainty heap on a plate. 
Leave it here till it is only damp, not wet. Dis- 
solve two lumps of white sugar in a pint of 
\vater, and into this drop the lace. Allow it to 
remain for about five minutes. Squeeze this 
sweetened water out and spread the lace smooth- 
ly upon the soft, flannel-covered ironing-table. 
Over it place a piece of white nmslin and iron 
with a warm, not too hot, iron until it is dry. 
Remove the cloth, and, taking the lace in the 
hands, carefully manipulate with the fingers un- 
til the lace has been restored to its original 
shape. Then with a fine lace needle, which has 
no point to tear and split the delicate threads, 
carefully open and shape each picot. 

Irish guipuie and real point lace should be 
pinned out, not ironed. This is quite a task, 
; nd should be attempted only when the w'orker 
has ample time and is not liable to be inter- 
rupted. A large wooden drum or hoop of suffi- 
cient width is best, but if this is not to be had, 
a large circular box or a straight board may 
be used. Pad the outer surface of this drum 
on both sides and the ends of the board with 
several layers of white flannel, and, if preferred, 
cover this with a piece of white muslin stretched 
smoothly. 

Lace must, of course, be damp when pinned, 
and then the pins will not tear the threads of the 
picots. Only a portion of the length should be 
removed from the damp cloth within which it 
is rolled. Should the lace, being pinned, become 
dry, dampen it with a wet cloth or sponge. 
First pin the footing or engrelure down to the 
padded support, using plenty of pins placed 
close together. Spread the lace across its width 
smoothly over the support, and pin each picot 
separately by thrusting the pin through it and 
into the flannel support as if it were a cushion. 
The pins must be the exact size of the picots, 
as their size must keep the picots in their origi- 
nal shape. Leave the lace until it is thoroughly 
dry and then remove the pins. If the lace has 
a raised design, rub it gently on the wrong side 
with a lace awl. 



47 



A Magazine Exclusively 
for Women 

Every woman who is even a little interested in Fancy-work 
of any kind ought to be a subscriber for The Modern Priicilla. 

For many years this publication has been admittedly the lead- 
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been, the undisputed authority on all kinds of Embroidery, Knit- 
ting, Crochet, Lace, Costumes, Lingerie, and Home Decoration. 

It is filled from cover to cover each month with designs, in- 
structions, descriptive articles, and valuable information. It tells 
you what is fashionable in embroidery, and shows you how to 
put into your wearing apparel all those fascinating little touches 
that excite the admiration of your friends. 

Why pay a big price for embroidered waists, corset-covers, 
aprons, centrepieces, table-covers, and Christmas novelties, when 
you can embroider them yourself for less than half the cost by 
using the practical patterns and instructions given in each issue 
of The Modern Priscilla ? 

Aside from the strictly fancy-work departments, there are from 
month to month instructive articles on China, Oil and Water- 
color Painting, Stenciling, Pyrography, Leather-work, Basketry, 
and many other subjects of a similar nature. 

There are also editorial departments, each in charge of an 
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